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Crack School #5 Placing Cams and Nuts
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 8:37 pm
by caribe
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-vid ... -placement
The last 30 sec in the advice about big cams looks sketch. What if that sucker walks? Any opinions?
Re: Crack School #5 Placing Cams and Nuts
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 2:14 am
by ahab
A sling should eliminate walking. Besides, it's the UK. Their toilets flush backwards and their cams don't walk.
Re: Crack School #5 Placing Cams and Nuts
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 2:24 am
by clif
ahab, your hairless lip rocks my world (2000 years hence)
Re: Crack School #5 Placing Cams and Nuts
Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:46 pm
by kato
My big cams never walk because I never let go of them. I just put a #5 in each fist and hand-over-hand up the crack.
Re: Crack School #5 Placing Cams and Nuts
Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 3:26 pm
by caribe
kato wrote:My big cams never walk because I never let go of them. I just put a #5 in each fist and hand-over-hand up the crack.
Edward Cam Hands
Re: Crack School #5 Placing Cams and Nuts
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:19 pm
by megmay
No, no, you have it all wrong. If your really going to play Edward Cam Hands, you've got tot duck tape em' to your hands. This is really the only way to keep wide gear from walking, because thats just what they'll do, one day those cams are gonna walk right out on you. The real challenge of Edward Cam hands is clipping the chains at the top!
Re: Crack School #5 Placing Cams and Nuts
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 1:44 pm
by kato
megmay wrote:...The real challenge of Edward Cam hands is clipping the chains at the top!
Oh meggie, I think you just gave yourself away... Real trad climbers top out!
Re: Crack School #5 Placing Cams and Nuts
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 2:20 pm
by megmay
Yeah, trad climbing is for the birds ... or pussies ... or bird-pussies. I only trad climb when I wake up with two 5's taped to my hands.
Re: Crack School #5 Placing Cams and Nuts
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:21 pm
by Howie Feltersnatch
Re: Crack School #5 Placing Cams and Nuts
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:19 am
by megmay
Great job class, now lets use it all in a sentence: Last Friday, when Johny got higher than a bird pussy his friends decided to play a joke, they broke out the big gear and make him play Edward Cam Hands until he came down.