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need a "get acquainted" partner during summer '12

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:25 pm
by bgflounder
Hi all,
I'm moving to Kentucky in a few weeks to start a new job, and I'm looking for a climbing/belaying partner that's familiar with the RRG (I've never been before). I've taken a climbing hiatus for a little over a year (school and work), and won't be climbing very hard (no higher than 5.9) at first. I've been outside around the country (CO, NY) and have about 7 years experience. Currently I only have sport gear but i'm building my trad rack this summer.
Male, 28, climbing around 5.9 sport and trad, probably a V1-V2 boulderer right now.
As an alternative, if someone would be willing to let me tag along on a few trips, I'd pitch in for costs, belaying, etc.
Thanks to any takers!
Pat

Re: need a "get acquainted" partner during summer '12

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:29 pm
by bgflounder
to answer any other questions, I belay with a reverso or a BD XP guide (gri-gri's make bad habits). I don't stick clip, I DO climb in jeans if it's cold, I don't call it a redpoint if it's pre-clipped, and I won't climb with anyone who wants to be in an altered state before/during climbing. And I know that everyone says they are, but I'm actually a solid belayer.

Re: need a "get acquainted" partner during summer '12

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:38 pm
by rsd212
bgflounder wrote:I don't stick clip.
That will change.

Re: need a "get acquainted" partner during summer '12

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:40 pm
by climb2core
bgflounder wrote:I don't stick clip
You will quickly become friends with the stick clip if you climb in the Red
bgflounder wrote:I DO climb in jeans if it's cold
Only Pigsteak cares about your climbing fashion statement...
bgflounder wrote: I don't call it a redpoint if it's pre-clipped
No one cares about that...

Re: need a "get acquainted" partner during summer '12

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:52 pm
by bcombs
You mentioned climbing in CO and NY, I don't know what kind of stone you were on, but Corbin sandstone is rarely bullet and even then, what we call bullet is laughable in a lot of areas. I think Rick said once that we shouldn't worry about the gear so much and instead worry about the peanut brittle its attached to.

Don't be a hero, nobody wants to carry your broken ankle ass back out to the car.

Re: need a "get acquainted" partner during summer '12

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:57 pm
by bgflounder
bcombs wrote:Don't be a hero, nobody wants to carry your broken ankle ass back out to the car.
Fear not, I'm about as conservative as it gets. the hero is the guy who gets medals sent to relatives, and I'd rather be the guy telling fish stories about how awesomely I climbed the last 5.7 testpiece, haha

Re: need a "get acquainted" partner during summer '12

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:58 pm
by bgflounder
rsd212 wrote:
bgflounder wrote:I don't stick clip.
That will change.
Fair enough. I guess I just haven't climbed anywhere that it was needed before.

Re: need a "get acquainted" partner during summer '12

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 6:05 pm
by bcombs
The local developers place high first bolts intentionally to encourage stick clipping. The rock here is not good. It's a beach just behind the patina. You'll get used to identifying what is worth pulling on when climbing newer routes where traffic hasn't cleaned them up.