Lead Belay

[kuwolski]

My boyfriend is essentially my full time climbing partner. While on lead sometime last fall, I looked down to see that he was belaying me with his back to the wall and sitting down. This made me really nervous and kind of psyched me out. But he claims that this is an acceptable form of lead belaying since he can feel how much rope is out. My concerns are a) I weigh about 125 while he is around 195....means a potentially hard fall for me if he doesn't give some slack and b) how is he supposed to keep me safe if he doesn't know what's going on? He says he has seen many experienced climbers doing this and it's completely acceptable. Any opinions? Advice?

[Josephine]

dump him. you're smarter than he is and you'll find plenty of other climbing partners. if I ever had a partner that did that to me, that would be the last time I climbed with them.

[THB]

I agree with Josephine...

1) Having your back to the wall only makes sense if the climb is super steep like something in the Madness Cave or in the cave at Bob Marley. If it isn't steep then you should certainly be facing the wall.

2) Due to your weight difference, he should most certainly be on his feet in order to give you a soft catch. My fiance is pretty much my full time climbing partner and she weighs about 125 and I'm at about 150. I have to be on my feet with my knees bent and ready to jump in order to give her a good soft catch. Sitting down while belaying is never really a smart idea. I could understand if you are top-roping, but even still, don't be lazy and instead stand up when you are belaying.

3) On the topic of being lazy... Belaying is a serious job, and everyone that climbs needs to understand this. When I see people belaying while sitting, it really makes me upset because these climbers don't understand how serious belaying actually is. When you are belaying, you are in control of another persons life. I'm very picky about who I let belay me, and I have the right to be picky. After all, if I make a bad decision about letting a bad belayer catch me, it could cost me my life. The belayer shouldn't be having a conversation while belaying (unless it's with the climber), the belayer should have their undivided attention on the climber.

[tbwilsonky]

unacceptable. bad form. etc.

i would hazard a guess that 'back to the walling" isn't the only thing wrong with his belay method. find a new partner or someone to school your current one asap.

[Cocoapuffs1000]

This is terrible practice for all the reasons you mentioned. You seem to have a good head on your shoulders - keep listening to that little voice of self preservation in your head. I'm sorry to say, his inability to grasp such a simple concept does not bode well for him to ever be a safe belayer.

[Saxman]

Dump with prejudice.

[climb2core]

Time for a serious heart to heart. If he is defensive at all and tries to justify it, get a new partner...

[ted]

if he's paying attention "looking up" and his brake hand is on the rope, your good. How long had you been hanging on the third bolt?

[Cramsie]

What up girl. I will belay you so good.

[whoneedsfeet]

FDBS cramsie?