RRC Archives

What is the story with this route?

I tried it yesterday.

Here is what I know about it.

It is hard.

It has almost convincing red textured paint covering weird concrete manufactured holds???

It's a pile, a manufactured pile!

I tried it one time. Its super hard and painful and manufactured and hard. Ray's description in the online guide is perfect.

I thought it was fun with a hard boulder, thought it was a grade or 2 harder

do the bolts need chopped if there are glued on holds?

Really? And people are pissed about fixed draws? Smash those holds and chop the bolts. If it is true...

Part of the history of the red, the route was there before both of you ever climbed there. You would never had known if it wasn't for JR's big mouth

i'm not saying psychopathy should be chopped or not, but i don't agree with kenny in that routes should be left alone soley based on historical purposes. i think you need to look if the route was put up in a style consistent with the ethics of the area at the time it was established. the route does have the most grosly manufactured crux i've seen in the red and seems to be out of character for the crag and red as a whole. manufacturing doesn't seem to be an issue in the red that often (thug life??) so i don't think chopping would serve as an example or statement to lessen future incidents. the thing never gets done and most folks don't even know whats up with it. though not as ugly of a job as psychopathy why don't people have beef with paranoia as well?

I don't know, paranoia is pretty ugly and more noticeable from the ground. You can't even see the 2 holds on psychopathy from the ground. It is def out of character for the cliff, 2 hard moves and requires no endurance like the other routes. Do
you think the route would go without the 2 holds?

you can see the glue on paranoia more easily from the ground, but i think both lines would be pretty nails hard without the fake grips.