Crazy card games and flying things with pointy butts
Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 1:26 pm
This is a bit long, but bear with me.
I headed back to Oil Crag yesterday and had a chance to do Crazy Game of Poker. I sent the thing, but am kind of confused on how I feel about the route itself. The opening boulder problem is pretty cool. It's techy and thin and with a little hocus pocus with the feet it's not too bad. I would say 11b/c to the first bolt (11d with yesterday's humidity). Past the first bolt, the climbing is ok except that it's ONLY 10 MORE DAMN FEET OF CLIMBING...or so it seems. On top of that I was never really sure of what route I was doing (BPS vs. CGoP). Every time I reached for a hold, I would have to look over to make sure I was still on route. Squeeze job? Probably. One star? Yeah. Anytime you can climb past the first bolt and drop the rating a whole number, that's bad in my book.
That leads me to the second part of the title "flying things with pointy butts". Near the 12 wall at Oil Crag sits the biggest damn hornet's nest I have ever seen. The thing looks about a foot and a half or so across and two feet tall. It has actually grown since the last time I was out there and has broken the branch holding it. My question is: How far will those things go to defend their nest? I put my draws on John Henry before I went on vacation and the nest wasn't that big so I didn't worry too much. When I went back out there yesterday (to get back on it for the first time SINCE hanging my draws ), the nest had doubled in size and I was afraid to go within 100 feet of it. Do I need to organize a posse to go burn that thing down? Shoot it out with a shotgun? How do you deal with something that big?
Mj
I headed back to Oil Crag yesterday and had a chance to do Crazy Game of Poker. I sent the thing, but am kind of confused on how I feel about the route itself. The opening boulder problem is pretty cool. It's techy and thin and with a little hocus pocus with the feet it's not too bad. I would say 11b/c to the first bolt (11d with yesterday's humidity). Past the first bolt, the climbing is ok except that it's ONLY 10 MORE DAMN FEET OF CLIMBING...or so it seems. On top of that I was never really sure of what route I was doing (BPS vs. CGoP). Every time I reached for a hold, I would have to look over to make sure I was still on route. Squeeze job? Probably. One star? Yeah. Anytime you can climb past the first bolt and drop the rating a whole number, that's bad in my book.
That leads me to the second part of the title "flying things with pointy butts". Near the 12 wall at Oil Crag sits the biggest damn hornet's nest I have ever seen. The thing looks about a foot and a half or so across and two feet tall. It has actually grown since the last time I was out there and has broken the branch holding it. My question is: How far will those things go to defend their nest? I put my draws on John Henry before I went on vacation and the nest wasn't that big so I didn't worry too much. When I went back out there yesterday (to get back on it for the first time SINCE hanging my draws ), the nest had doubled in size and I was afraid to go within 100 feet of it. Do I need to organize a posse to go burn that thing down? Shoot it out with a shotgun? How do you deal with something that big?
Mj