Herd Mentality

[JR]

What is the deal??

Should Herd Mentality be down rated because the MO is now using the obvious hueco despited the first ascent not using it??? Ala, Paradise Lost.

It seems to me, like it was bolted with the clear intention of not using it. I base this on not being able to reach the clip from the hueco.

It also seems to me, like the climbing goes into the hueco. In fact, I think the lip of the hueco is used in the "straight up" beta.

What is the deal?

[Cromper]

I'm disappointed there is not a "I don't give a shit" option. Who cares if it is 12c or 12b?
This is a route with holds made of sandstone not plastic.

[climb2core]

This route would not even be solid at 12a if you use the second hueco, just a couple of balancy crimp moves leading into a giant no hands that skips the only moderately challenging move on the route. Which, besides being challenging is the only fun move on the route (big move off sloper rail to good incut left hand crimp). HEY GUESS WHAT JR, sport climbing is contrived. And if you use that 2nd hueco i suggest posting an fa and calling it bitch mentality.


But seriously. It is not a gym and we are not professional rock climbers where it matters... I think we should call the 12c non-hueco version Gym Mentality and the other, 12b (or 11d version according to some) Bitch Mentality. Either way, it is all just rock climbing and I always try to find the easiest way up a route.

[krampus]

path of least resistance. 12b

[Andrew]

Its 11d if you do the section above the first hueco properly.

[pigsteak]

professional rock climbing matters? oh boy.

[climb2core]

professional rock climbing matters? oh boy.

I would lose all my sponsors if they found out I climbed the 12b version.

[clif]

i'll donate one american dollar to muir valley for every whimpering comment arguing between a 12b or 12c rating over the next hour. it's 645.

[climb2core]

The climb is 12b, there is no such things as the hueco is out.

[clif]

true believers have lost their souls, what waco? that shit burned down years ago, you gun ain't worth shit