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I have had tendinitis in both elbows for 3 months, I finally decided to go to physical therapy today (thanks Ahmad) and was not very happy with the results. I was basically told that climbing is similar to running in that some peoples bodies are not designed for the activity and I should probably quit. Can anyone recommend a therapist who is in the UK system that would have some familiarity with climbing injury?

I think that is utter bullshit. We are primates. We can all climb.

Try that are massager thingie. People have success with it.

Have you tried getting on a push-up exercise program? Fingers turned in, fingers pointing forward then fingers turned out.

Take the grade down a notch for a while. Climb light. Then slowly bring the grade back up.

2 words. Theraband Flexbar.

1. Never boulder 2 days in a row.
2. never climb 2 days in a row if you're having issues.
3. do pushups to build opposing muscles.
4. stretch your bicepts.
5. warmup extensively. If your limit is 5.12 you should warm up on 10a/b then slowly progress to your limit. warming up on 11b isn't sufficient.
6. take ibuprofen before and after climbing.
7. ice your elbows after every session.
8. If you are having issues DO NOT DYNO. DO NOT DEADPOINT. Climb smooth, climb static.

Follow the above for a month, and you'll be fine.

Andrew will jump on this - but sleeping with your arms straight, rather than bent can actually have wondrous effects. Takes a little getting used to, but cleared my tendinitis right up!

JeffCastro wrote:I have had tendinitis in both elbows for 3 months, I finally decided to go to physical therapy today (thanks Ahmad) and was not very happy with the results. I was basically told that climbing is similar to running in that some peoples bodies are not designed for the activity and I should probably quit. Can anyone recommend a therapist who is in the UK system that would have some familiarity with climbing injury?

Get a new therapist. I have successfully treated many people (including climbers) for elbow tendonitis. Things to consider trying:

1.) Anti-infammatories. I am not a doctor so I won't tell you what to take, but my patient took 2 x 200mg of Ibuprofen 4x daily.
2.) Counter-force elbow brace. Padded strap that helps take pressure of tendon. Wear during climbing (and daily activity if it hurts with your daily activity)
3.) Give yourself 48 hours between climbing
4.) Ice for 15 minutes a couple times a day.


Things you therapist should consider doing
1.) Ultrasound. 3 mHz, 1.5 w/cm2 for 5-6 min.
2.) Iontophoresis. Uses dexamethasone (steroid anti-inflammatory) that is driven into area of inflammation topically via a process called iontophoresis (basically uses electricity to drive in medication)
3.) Gradual wrist/forearm strengthening program. Often may be helpful to focus on eccentric resistance.
4.) Cross friction massage
5.) Ice/Electrical Stimulation- I usually do Hi Volt.

Send me a pm if you need more direction. Isn't Pigsteaks wife a CHT (certified hand therapist). Go see her if you can.

Man, I think I need to open up a seasonal PT clinic at the Red...

Using anti-inflammatory medicines on a regular basis has been proven to actually weaken tendons. While they are nice to have around...taking them regularly is a bad idea.

Warm up, stretch, cool down each day of climbing.

Do proper antagonist exercises to strengthen.

Ice massage

Cross friction massage

shear wrote:Using anti-inflammatory medicines on a regular basis has been proven to actually weaken tendons. While they are nice to have around...taking them regularly is a bad idea.

Please show me the study. I am sure that effect would be with chronic use. Steroids weaken tendons too... but it also helps get rid of inflammation and jump start the healing/tissue repair process. Anti-inflammatories can and do play a beneficial therapeutic role in helping people get better. They are best for a short duration used during the acute onset of the injury. It is not as simple as"Taking them regularly is a bad idea".

It's medial, right? AKA Golfer's Elbow but starting to become known as "Climber's Elbow" as climbing is becoming more popular. Read this guy's blog:
http://www.colinmcnulty.com/blog/2008/0 ... ondylitis/

I can't tell you how much the Flexbars have helped my elbows for both inside and outside tendinitis, they are cheap easy to carry around and take everywhere to warm up etc. please look at the tabs because the exercises are different for inside and outside elbow tendinitis. I thank my good friend Tony Berlier who showed me the bars...we only use the red and the teal...the blue is way too hard.
http://www.flexbar.info/