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Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 2:48 pm
by Cleveland
I'm looking for some solid 5.8's to get on, I'm not looking for anything sandbagged, just solid 5.8 or 5.8-. That being said I have done whiteout, cheaper than a movie and snake. Some routes that caught my eye when looking through the online guide were Buzzard's Roost North, Curiousity, Eye of the Storm, Frechburg Overhangs, Mini Keg, Sassafras Tease and Zambezei Plunge. If anyone has any info on the routes listed above that would be great, or if you have any other suggestions I would welcome those as well.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:05 pm
by caribe
Cleveland wrote:Frechburg Overhangs
Definitely worth the walk!!
Cleveland wrote:Zambezei Plunge
Scary!! Bring a #5 and a #6.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:08 pm
by toad857
I don't know what solid means...
but I recently did Indecision at the stadium in muir valley. Very fun line, tall, south facing, and the top out is probably better than any other line in Muir.
Vision and Jake Flake at Global village are awesome, too.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:10 pm
by caribe
One Fist Two Fist Red Fist Blue Fist and other options out there at or near grade.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:13 pm
by sevensvseights
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:25 pm
by Jeff
Buzzards Roost North. I remember one harder move on the lower section, felt more like 8+ or 9, but I may have been weak that day, not uncommon
There were three of us and we broke it up into 2 pitches for rope drag issues so be mindful of that as well as finding your way to the base. Pm me if finding your way down seems confusing, maybe I can help.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:38 pm
by dustonian
Dicey at Best and Blue Biner. Autumn is kind of 8+ish too.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:41 pm
by caribe
dustonian wrote:Dicey at Best and Blue Biner. Autumn is kind of 8+ish too.
Both at 5.8 Dicey literally makes a joke out of Autumn. They simply can not be the same grade by anybody's standards. He is looking for advice not a kick in the nads.
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:43 pm
by dustonian
You just suck at offwidth. But yeah, DAB is harder. Don't forget about Arachnid. Oh yeah, and Dog Days, another stellar 8+ sandbag, much harder than Africa. First Fall at Sanctuary and Good Times at ESB. Rocket Man and Muscle Shoals at MB, When Gravity Fails is a really killer easy 9 too. The Shining and Sharp at Lady Slipper.
Man so many good trad routes at that grade in the Red!
Re: Route Selection
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:47 pm
by toad857
Caver's route. felt like a 5.8 to me.