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I've noticed over the years a steady decrease in basic knowledge of ethics and safety amongst our fellow climbers. And with the emergence of more and more gyms, we have A LOT more climbers.

So I'm wondering, Is it the ignorance of newer climbers leading to more accidents or just more climbers leading to more accidents? I can't make up my mind.

(No offense to anyone that may have been hurt while climbing)

Volume increases everything--

accidents
poops
5.14 sends
pizzas served

Seems like majority of accidents I have heard about in the last year have not involved a disproportionate percentage of newbies. So, I think volume plays a larger role.

Will be curious to find what happened with this last one. My guess would be communication break down... ie. "you are off belay" followed by "ok, take". Of course this is complete speculation and not to be construed in any way as any attempt to explain what went wrong.

I would say both. I pulled a bolt out of a climb yesterday (not in the red). Luckily I saw that it looked a little weird and pulled on it a few times to find out it ws barily hanging in there. It could have easily been an accident that does not relate to ignorance or inexperience. Even though my experience did give me the knowledge about how a bolt works and I can tell when one is fucked up.

Climbingrocks, you have only been here a couple years. Perhaps it was a location change, or has your perception of safety and ethical denigration changed that much since you have been here? Also, you haven't climbed with me in several weeks. Maybe you should quit climbing with other dumbass people as well.

I think its people from texas and ohio

krampus wrote:I think its people from texas and ohio

LOL, well better than Canadians, or even worse... Canadians from Ohio that once lived in Texas.

I was thinking bat when I started. I was taught how to clean anchors by rapping on the ground. I practiced several times each time I went to the gym. After I practiced alone, I would have other people watch me to make sure I did it right. Then I did it outside with a friend right next to me when we were up in the air. Despite all this, I still f'ed it up 1st time I did it alone. I forgot to take off the draws & instead of threading through the rings I threaded right back through the draws. Luckily I was weighting my gear so when I tried to take off the draws (the only thing the rope was through) they wouldn't budge. Took me a minute but I figured it out. Had I been standing on a ledge, it could have turned out differently.

There have also been several times I've gone to rappel and only caught 1 strand of rope in my device. Since I double checked by testing it w/a prussic it was a mistake easily corrected.

It's so easy to make a mistake. Even Lynn hill forgot to tie her knot correctly when cleaning. I'm sure those learning the sport make more, but every time I hear of an accident I remember I could have easily done that same thing - whatever it was. I try to remember that climbing involves checking & rechecking everything I do, every time I do it

Wow! You sound sketchy... Next time you are cleaning, you should yell, "I am Josephine, watch out!" . You may save a life...

if I am not mistaken Josi, Lynn's accident was NOT from cleaning...she merely started climbing without finishing her knot, and when she "took" at the anchors to be lowered......zip.