RRC Archives

my hardest trad climb so far is the 5.9 variation on nutcracker in yosemite. my goal is to climb solid 5.10 and maybe a 5.11 or two in the rrg before i move to yosemite next summer, is this realistic ( i am a solid 5.11 sport climber)? what can accelerate progress on cracks?

don't limit yourself. get on every 9 and 10 you come across and work some 11s. don't avoid a climb because you think you can't do it. If you have the ability to climb 11 sport you can climb 11 trad with practice. and, as Arno's book emphasizes, enjoy the learning process and don't let the outcome contol your motivation.

if you wanna get better at crack technique, use the crack whenever you can instead of going for the holds on the face. if you want to work on your face technique, do the opposite. if you just wanna work on better overall movement, use both the crack and face.

Also remember that gear placement is a big part of it - you have to know when your gear is good. So, my suggestion is to take Danny and Chesters advice; but definately not neglected learning why your protection is good (or why not)!

I totally agree with Danny. If you just get on those 10's. I think you will find them only marginally harder. Just take that confidence you would have on 10a sport climb and transfer it right over to trad. It's just climbing, trad is not a magic trick. Put the time in and you will be climbing trad just as hard as sport.

sport climbing is the fastest way to harder trad.

F*ck the valley, and live in Vedauwoo for a month or so. No ropes and gear, just crash pads and tape. You will get your black belt in crack kung fu for sure.

If you are set on living in that hell hole, then make a bunch of trips to the north face of looking glass and t-wall. Plus, climb at Muscle Beach 3-4 times a month, untill all those routes feel super easy.

Wes

Crap. Wes has been staying at Miguels too much and the Buddas got a hold of him too. Next he will be wandering around hopped up on moon pies and ale8.

Better something than nothing, but some of those slick cracks in the Valley are tough to train for in the Red! BTW - hit Split Decision (5.9) at the Arena - vertical splitter wide hands - a nice opportunity to get both hands and both feet straight-in jamming simultaneously!

Split Decision will be a classic.It just rocks.