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Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 4:25 am
by jonlong724
Is there any reason why you shouldn't clip a quickdraw to the rope first, then clip it to the bolt? Seems like you could save yourself an extra reach.
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 5:12 am
by DHB
It's not that you "shouldn't", its just that most people don't. Sure, it's theoretically a time/ energy saver (and may keep you from backclipping), but some people (me, at least) will use the time it takes to hang a bare draw to determine if they are in a good stance or have the energy to clip the rope before they tell the belayer to pay out extra slack. Or, if you try to reach the bolt but just can't make it, you can just but the bare draw in your teeth until you get to a new position. I'd argue that doing this with a pre-roped draw would be mildly dangerous in the event you took a fall, and would probably make climbing to a new stance harder. Plus, the higher you get on the route, the more friction you'd get running over a pre-roped draw as you tried to pull it up to clip (due to the weight of the rope below you), especially if you're in an awkward body position. It's hard enough to pull up rope sometimes even with your entire hand wrapped around it (especially if your belayer is short-roping you). If you're having these same difficulties while you have a somewhat-precarious grasp on a pre-roped draw, the chances of it slipping out of your hand are greater. Plus your buddy may be hanging draws on every other route you climb, so why not practice your clipping technique even when it's your turn to hang 'em?
And that's not the way they do it in teh movies, so it must be bad style.
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 10:50 am
by Andrew
Because the draws are already hanging on the route.
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 11:12 am
by businessprofessional
It seems like clipping this way would up the chances of getting smacked in the balls by the draw if you take a whip while trying to clip.
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 12:16 pm
by climb2core
1.) Way harder to pull the rope up like that.
2.) What the hell do you grab when you can't make the clip?
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 12:41 pm
by bcombs
Andrew wrote:Because the draws are already hanging on the route.
Ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner!
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 1:57 pm
by shear
jonlong724 wrote:Is there any reason why you shouldn't clip a quickdraw to the rope first, then clip it to the bolt? Seems like you could save yourself an extra reach.
yes. b/c it's dumb...
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 2:01 pm
by lena_chita
shear wrote:jonlong724 wrote:Is there any reason why you shouldn't clip a quickdraw to the rope first, then clip it to the bolt? Seems like you could save yourself an extra reach.
yes. b/c it's dumb...
...yet the same dumb question comes up over and over on various boards with dumb regularity.
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 2:02 pm
by climb2core
I think the bolt is more likely to pull out if you clip like that...
Re: Probably a dumb question...
Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 5:09 pm
by pigsteak
it is considered cheating. only draws hanging and wearing jeans are considered appropriate for a legit send.