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Bolts that pull out?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 3:11 am
by jonlong724
I'm a new climber and I'm getting ready for my first trip down to RRG (also my first experience climbing outdoors). My biggest concern is bolts breaking or pulling out on a fall, since it's not something that I can really prepare for. I'll probably be climbing in the 5.7-5.10 range. Have bolts been an issue? Is it something I should be wary of?
Thanks!
Re: Bolts that pull out?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 3:24 am
by bentley
The answer to your question is no
On a slightly different note good luck with this post cause your about to be raped over the coals! Be sure to double check your knot and make sure your belayer knows exactly what they are doing. The red is a great plAce and you will have a great time! Seriously.
Re: Bolts that pull out?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 3:26 am
by dustonian
I thought they were supposed to come out so you could use them on the next route???
(just kidding. Do what Bentley says.)
Re: Bolts that pull out?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 3:33 am
by jonlong724
bentley wrote:The answer to your question is no
On a slightly different note good luck with this post cause your about to be raped over the coals! Be sure to double check your knot and make sure your belayer knows exactly what they are doing. The red is a great plAce and you will have a great time! Seriously.
Haha yeah, I'm on a lot of forums and this one is pretty high on the list with sarcastic answers. But there's a lot of great info here, so it's all worthwhile.
I'm so excited to be finally moving my climbing outdoors! I was recently down at RRG for some backpacking/camping and was blown away by the cliffs. I generally err on the side of being overly cautious, so my climbing partner and I have been practicing our lead climbing / belaying and making sure we communicate well. I'm still scared, though.
Re: Bolts that pull out?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 3:37 am
by truello
It happens every once in a while you just have to shrug it off.
Re: Bolts that pull out?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 4:07 am
by dustonian
It's worth pointing out that bolts WOULD "pull out" if not for the hard work of guys like Blake and Jeff over at team suck...check out the site at
www.teamsuckclimbing.com and make a dough-nation--everyone that climbs in the Red should! Think of it as part of your "gym membership" fee to climb in such an amazing place (I say "part" because the rest of your "membership fee" should go to the RRGCC (
www.rrgcc.org) and Muir Valley (
www.muirvalley.com) to cover the operating costs of keeping these great places open to all of us!).
Re: Bolts that pull out?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 4:57 am
by DHB
jonlong724 wrote: I'm still scared, though.
Step 1: Grow a pair of nuts and stop being such a pussy.
Step 2: Get your knowledge 100% dialed in so that when you get all elvis on your first runout you can forget your name, but not how to climb smart.
Step 3: ???
Step 4: Profit!
But seriously, your first lead fall will probably be the scariest thing you've experienced in a while, even if your waist is only a foot above the bolt. If you have any questions or there's something that doesn't feel right, don't hesitate to ask the people next to you for their opinion. Some people will be dicks and act like you're an annoyance, but only because they don't realize that the only thing more annoying than a gymbie with questions is a gymbie whose questions are shrugged off and who then beaks their leg/back/face. And about Step 2: by asking if bolts pull out of the wall makes me think you still have some learning to do. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. WITH EVERYTHING. ALL THE TIME.
Re: Bolts that pull out?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 5:18 am
by jonlong724
Thanks for the reassuring comments so far.
In response to the response above - of course I have more learning to do. I am new to this. I'm comfortable with climbing indoors, but climbing outdoors is a very different experience. I'm seeking information from all the resources I can: books, experienced friends, internet, and forums like this one.
Re: Bolts that pull out?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 11:00 am
by GWG
Since this is your first climbing trip to the gorge, I'd recommend hiring a guide. RRO is a great place to start. They are outstanding and can set you in the right direction right out of the gate. They'll be able to take you to some great routes, show you some of the finer points necessary for safely climbing outdoors, and make it an experience you'll never forget.
Good luck.
Re: Bolts that pull out?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 11:56 am
by Andrew
What climbing website have you been hanging out at that suggest that bolts pulling is a common thing?