RRC Archives

I'm heading to Jackson Falls for a weekend trip. I'd like to get some suggestions for good sports routes, 11A - 12D. Other information about Jackson Falls would also be appreciated, this will be my first time there.

Thanks!

The Reckoning .11d
Russia .12a
Hidden Treasure .12a
Beaver Wall - Who Needs Friends, Everybody Needs Friends - .12a (both);
DeTox Mountain .12a; Farmer .12a; Cowboys & Cross-dressers .12a
Velvet Green .12a (I haven't done this one, but supposed to be great)
Umbrella Girls, .12a

Find someone with a book - there are lots of folks always there. Have fun.

Cro-Magnon Warrior .12b

I would wait it out until fall, but anyway
group therapy 10b
spiders from mars 10b
venom 10a
3 hour tour 10b
cheerio bowl 10a
flingin hog 11a
void warrior 11d
voice 12d
viking blood 12c
king snake 12d
bursting out 12b

Though its not absolutely necessary because of the amount of people generally there, I would still suggest getting your hands on a guidebook as not all the lines are obvious as to which are which even when you do have a guidebook. Someone mentioned earlier that you should wait till fall, and while this is true because the unbelievable friction in the fall at Jackson combined with the classic slab climbs make Jackson falls great, it is still a super fun place to climb in the Spring.

Lovely Arete (11a) and Hidden Treasure (12a) are almost right next to each other and are right at the access rope, so I totally suggest getting on these. Close by is Snakes Roof which has a few fun albeit short roof problems, one of which (i think its Here Come the Snakes -12b) is stellar. Cro Magnun Warrior (12b) is in the area too along with a couple good warmup routes at Spleefs Peak.

Another area to look into would be Battle Axe Tower because it has The Reckoning (11d), Void Warrior (11d), Viking Blood (12c), and if you have gear you can do The Bolted One (12a crack with one bolt). All are super fun classic routes. On the way you should stop by the Gallery for a warmup on Earthbound Misfits (10a) to work you pockets and slopers and Group Therapy (10c) to work your juggy pump. Also nearby is Energizer (12a i think?) and I believe theres another good route on that block, but I'm not exactly sure.

The Hidden Peaks area has Detox (12a), Naked Blade (11a mixed route if you like a good runout at the end or have gear to place for the last 25 feet), and Cheerio Bowl (10a) which is a superfun route to warmup for all the other great climbs over here. Thats just off the top of my head, I'm sure there are alot more routes in the area better suited for your level.

If your looking to go farther and away from the crowds, Railroad Area has 2 great 10d's in Wild at Heart and Fragile Egos and a super classic 11b in Blue Velvet. Theres also a less traveled 12a along the way called Raging Intensity which has some super cool arete climbing. You can also stop by Beaver Wall and get your pump on the overhung 12s there, but personally I wouldn't bother doing the short overhanging routes at Jackson if you have the ability to go to the Red instead.

Regardless of where you go at Jackson, its perfectly suited for your level and your bound to have a good time regardless of when you go. Have fun and maybe I'll see ya down there.

I've got the guide book.
Thanks for the suggestions. If I can get in 15 pitches a day I should be able to try most of them.

i bolted my first 6-8 routes at Jackson. Can't remember a single name.

It's probably for the best