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Hijacked Steep4me's thread for about Tacit for a bit, but thought this was a serious topic deserving of its own thread...

The question:

Which is better (defining better left open to interpretation intentionally):

a) Flashing a route with a pre-climb tactical plan and beta spewing as your belay partner "spoons" you up the route (trying to stay hip with the lingo). Even better if a third party has a laser pointer to help show you the key holds. (This is the environmentally friendly equivalent of the infamous Blue Tick-mark)

OR

b) Shunning the internet chat forums, videos, your buddies girlfriend's advice who cranks harder than all of you... and trying an honest to god "Almost On-Sight" attempt, which of course you blow the crucial sequence because you just didn't see that HUGE sidepull out right, followed by a wobbler. You then make a Second-go Send an hour later.

I am kind of leaning towards the flashy sounding Flash, but am open to being persuaded...

I would rather give it a go first and see what happens. Some slight beta about being careful about a bolt is one thing, but I prefer to try learn a sequence on my own first. Not that the climbs I even do would be worth asking about. When I start trying 12's my mindset may change.

Option B because it reminds me of Robert Deniro's character in Taxi Driver coming out of his isolation chamber, walking to the route without talking to anyone, then stepping up and making a great almost onsite attempt which is proven to be almost because the line was sent next go. Almost must always be verified by sending next go otherwise it was not almost. Oh and wobblers are okay now. Sharma said so.

Haha. I ran into the fella who carries the laser pointer to point out holds and just spews beta without question, regardless of how you are doing on the route. I think his name was Frank. Anyone know him?

Option B. It has always been more satisfying to me to get the onsight than the flash. It proves how good of a climber you are, not how well you are prepared.

I like to look at things for their value as a tool in life though. If that wall was a dungeon wall rated at (pick a grade) I know I could climb it because I actually onsight that grade. I could then escape the dungeon; then I could eat a hallucinogenic tie-die flower; then I could throw fireballs out of my hand to kill the freakishly scary looking box turtle turned Godzilla creature; then I could pick up my Princess and take her back home to the mushroom mansion.
All that because I can onsight. This proves I can and get out of the dungeon.
All because of a natural climbing ability.

Now to work on my ninja skills. That way I could climb buildings for covert agencies and terminate evil people targets with extreme stealth. Because, you know, climbing plus Ninja skills equal secret agent. Wait I left out gymnastic ability.

Hmm, I need to sign up with the nearest tumbling squad...


Option B.

don't be a little biatch and let go, like I do all the time!

B if you have balls,

A if you have ego problems

Option B. Route reading and figuring out your beta is one of my favorite parts about climbing. Its all about the personal challenge for me.

The trick for option A is to have your identicle twin give you the play by play, that way you know all of the moves will fit your size. Last spring I did a route where Chriss gave me the play by play for every move, he said it was like a climbing video game.

fray21 wrote:The trick for option A is to have your identicle twin give you the play by play, that way you know all of the moves will fit your size. Last spring I did a route where Chriss gave me the play by play for every move, he said it was like a climbing video game.

Thats funny if you understand the joke.