RRC Archives

I heard Tacit has been rebolted? I am looking for a steep route that is more difficult after the 4-5th bolt (i.e. that I can get high enough off the deck so that if I fall I have room for a soft catch w/out decking). Is Tacit that kind of climb, w/ the crux on the second half of the route? Any beta someone wants to give up for me? I am 5'3" (so, short person beta is best).

I don't know anything about the route. How does it flow? Is it juggy or crimpy, slopey, any scary clips?

Tacit was rebolted a couple years ago. the crux on all these routes is pulling the roof. Tacit is 11 minus on big holds up to the crux and then a couple hard moves. another good candidate at the same crag is betavul pipeline. i think it is easier than Tacit. again, it has big holds up a steep wall to a distinct crux.

Thanks! That's exactly what I wanted to hear. I have done Beta-vul it was fun--but I think you are probably right, not a tough 12a. Tacit will likely be more difficult for me, but maybe I will give it a try

um....I was hoping for more beta? Anyone have this thing wired? What's pulling the roof like?

as i recall you'll be at huge jugs where you can look up and ponder the holds. I go up to a pocket with my left hand. There's a crappy crimp to the right of the crack that you get as a gaston. there is a high foot heel/toe cam that some folks get, i think it is especially useful for shorter folks. Anyhow, from there go up to some bowling ball pockets (ie slit fingers) that are really good but kinda hard to find. there are pretty good holds from there to the top. good luck!

there's a couple of relaxing heel hooks that lock you in enough for a good shake... but then once you get into the 'crux', you'll know it. be prepared to rush to the top from the last good rest you find.

I did the crux differently. Staying to the right of the crack, I used a left hand side pull in the crack and a deep pocket for my right hand that was to the right of the crack. I got a high heel hook with my left foot on a juggy ledge, and bumped my left hand up to the crimp over the lip of the roof. Keeping the heel hook, I back flagged my right foot, matched the crimp, and bumped my left hand over to the bowling ball pocket. Then I got a high right foot, flagged my left foot, and went for a solid flake above and to the right of the bowling ball pocket. Then I got my right foot up over the lip, matched, and it was over. I tried it the other way before, but this worked best for me. Good luck man!

Thanks everyone--that's more like it!!!!! I cannot wait to apply all of this knowledge
I'll let ya know how it goes.

What has been said here that can't be learned in one beta-burn.


p.s. a beta-burn does not count as a try because the purpose is for beta not sending.

Andrew wrote:What has been said here that can't be learned in one beta-burn.


p.s. a beta-burn does not count as a try because the purpose is for beta not sending.

I know this fly's in the face of your non send beta non attempt, but what do you guys think is better... A beta intensive flash or an "almost on-sight" followed by a second go send? (Andrews rules of sending not withstanding for purpose of this discussion)