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Small Group for Top Ropping

Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:53 pm
by Bill Johnson
Good Morning All:

Hope everyone had an awesome and safe weekend at the Red.

I'm in need of some Beta and good information.

I have been asked to bring a small group of older Boy Scouts to the Red, who are working on an Eagle Badge for their rock climbing portion.

Reluctently, I gave in.

I, under no circumstances want to bring a group to any of the classic crags and interfer with the good climbers whatsoever.

My knowledge of the Red is pretty good.

I have reviewed an area that I have never been to. Noticed it in the On Line Guide Book. It's off of Tunnel Rdge Road, and might workout for a small group like this.

The crags I noticed are D. Boone Hut Crag, Haystack Rock and perhaps Courthouse Rock. Looks like they do not get a lot of traffic, except tourtist/hikers which would be ideal to keep this group away from the more pristine climbing Crags.

Do any of these Crags have good natural protection (solid trees) on top, or rocks with cracks etc. for building solid Top Rope anchors?

And can the tops be easily accessed to build anchors? This is just a one day trip, and need an area that is somewhat easy, and convenient to get to and set up, go through their routine, and leave.

I would love to get away and scout these areas out beforehand, but am swamped at the moment and impossible.

Any help/suggestions would really be appreciated.

Thanks all !!

Have a great week.

Bill

Re: Small Group for Top Ropping

Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:06 pm
by Clevis Hitch
You might want to get a guide from one of the guide services. They can help you set up anchors and belay stations in a more safe manner. I never knew how much went into the training for the guides until I started belaying one who was taking the test. Pretty intense just for top rope. Plus they know where all the cool spots away from the crowds would be. Try Red River Outdoors or Torrent Falls Climbing Adventure.

Re: Small Group for Top Ropping

Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:29 pm
by Bill Johnson
Hi Cleves:

Thanks so much for your reply. I really appreciate it.

I'm just trying to figure out what is in that area, for type of gear I wish to pack along and any other consideration.

Just trying to see if the area is pretty easy to acess for some young boys, and the ease of setting anchors basically, to plan out the day.

I am an AMGA Guide, and pretty good on anchor building. But just never been in that area, and need to know pretty much what exists, if any on top of some of those crags.

I totally agree, if I weren't adapt at building solid anchors, the first thing I would do is hire a local guide, for I know they are all real good in that area.

I have noticed some stairs/steps on line for one of those areas, and just trying to figure out how the access is and finding a good site for staging a group setting.

Thanks again.

You have a great one !

Bill

Re: Small Group for Top Ropping

Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:37 pm
by bcombs
Hi Bill,

The problem with this approach in the RRG is that almost all the established climbing areas have little or no top access to set up a top rope without first leading the pitch. It doesn't mean they don't exist, but few and far between. If you are TRSM certified, you won't find many scenarios in the RRG that are similar to what you tested on.

If the height and technical ability required for the climb is not a factor, consider practice wall at Muir Valley. You can reach the top anchors (bolted) from a walk up on the left.

If anchor building is part of the exercise I would come prepared to lead at least one pitch to set up your initial top-rope(s). If you aren't prepared to lead or don't have the gear, contact Red River Outdoors.

Re: Small Group for Top Ropping

Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:42 pm
by dustonian
Regarding Practice Wall, I believe a guided group such as this would require prior approval from Rick Weber and potentially a Muir Valley-approved guide for the day.

Re: Small Group for Top Ropping

Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:49 pm
by bcombs
Good point. Bill, if you need to contact Rick Weber regarding Muir Valley, take a look here: http://www.friendsofmuirvalley.org/index.php?page=8

Re: Small Group for Top Ropping

Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:58 pm
by Nit
The Webers are amazing people. They've been a little overburdened lately, but I bet they would like to help you. I can't speak for them, but I think they'd be glad to setup a top rope, or get someone else to do it for your Scouts. Are you only wanting them to climb, or learn to set up top ropes?

Re: Small Group for Top Ropping

Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 11:32 am
by GWG
Bill Johnson wrote: I have been asked to bring a small group of older Boy Scouts to the Red, who are working on an Eagle Badge for their rock climbing portion.
Since when is there a rock climbing portion for the Eagle Badge? If they are looking to earn Climbing Merit Badge, which is not an Eagle required badge, the practical application does not have to be done outdoors.

Be sure there is a Scout "Climb On" certified person with you so that all the basic requirements regarding safety are covered. There are all sorts of restrictions regarding what can and can't be done when climbing with scouts.

Good luck.

Re: Small Group for Top Ropping

Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 12:17 pm
by cliftongifford
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Re: Small Group for Top Ropping

Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 3:57 pm
by jordancolburn
GWG wrote: Be sure there is a Scout "Climb On" certified person with you so that all the basic requirements regarding safety are covered. There are all sorts of restrictions regarding what can and can't be done when climbing with scouts.

Good luck.
The climbing restrictions for BSA are pretty lame. I sat through the whole Climb On certification with my dad years ago and remembered it being incredibly boring and filled with a decent amount of misinformation. If you have a group of scouts actually interested in serious climbing, its better to just go as an informal outing so it's not necessary to follow all the crazy insurance driven BSA policies.

For plain top roping, it shouldn't be too hard to get a group of scouts to have fun. Just make sure you have a good belayer and you're comfortable leading whatever routes to set up the top rope. At pistol ridge one day, a guy showed up trying to set a top rope on those two easy sport climbs around back. He had 15 or so girl scouts with him and a few leaders. Nobody with belaying experience. Good thing we were there to help him hang a top rope or he would have been left to teach a belayer while on lead.