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I've climbed Pogue Ethics a few times, but always a couple of years between climbs. At the bulge above the ledge (the crux in my opinion), I've always climbed up the right side, doing a bit of a layback. It makes for a long reach to clip the bolt above the bulge.

Recently, talking to one of my friends, he commented that he always goes around the bulge to the left. Having never tried it, I thought I could get some opinions here.

So here is my question: How do you like to climb Pogue Ethics, and why?

Thanks,
Tom

Left

Right... though I subsequently heard that left is the "correct" way.

der uber wrote:Left

What sort of moves are required on the left? (shameless request for beta)

Tom

I've gone both ways and just climbed this classic route a few weeks ago

Right is juggier but traverses significantly from the line of bolts. This is the path of least resistance, but adds a little spice in the event of a whip.

Left is more direct but uses 'cruxier' holds. For someone new to the grade of 5.9, this may will feel tough. You have to open hand 'hug' the bulge with your right, lean out left with the abyss at your back, reaching up left to moderate edgy-jugs that you'll use to pull yourself up and over. After you're above the bulge, you're back to jug-hauling goodness for the rest of the climb.

Which is the 'correct' way? Open to interpretation. I liked going right when I was climbing 5.9-5.10, but now that I'm climbing harder, I like the left way because it's more direct and stays with the bolts, but is admittedly the 'harder' sequence to pull.

Straight over the bulge is the way that is in line with the route. Do a knee bar under the bulge and reach for the holds under the bolt. I feel going right is easier, but takes a chance on decking on the ledge. To the left is definitely harder climbing but feels much more safer. I have done all three and the knee bar on the bulge, even though it does not feel the best is the most direct way and safer than to the right.

i remember going right, it was a bit dangerous. without the mental fortitude, one could easily freak out and have a nasty fall there.

try all three, its a fun rout and worth doing that many times

I agree with krampus, try all three. Super fun!

Over the bulge in the middle of the route.