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Just kidding, this gear wasn't quite that old. As a matter of fact, some of it was even (relatively) new.

Here's the skinny. For more than a year now, there have been some fixed quickdraws up on Orange Juice. NBD, they're all over the Red. We saw them when my partner was out at Funk Rock, getting ready to hop on OJ. Instead of just blindly trusting them, she decided that she'd rather just take her own gear up and not risk whipping on any of the mank up there. When she got to the anchor, she realized the stuff left up there was in pretty bad shape. She left a couple biners for people to lower off of, but pulled those draws. She continued to look at draws on the way down, finally deciding to just strip the route. Some of the biners were sharp, some were stuck open, and some just had mank 'bones. By no means were they the worst fixed draws in the Red, but they were well past their prime.

I'm not trying to call anyone out here or start a fixed draw debate. Just want to remind people that these things do get worn out. They're consumables, just like shoes, ropes, and harnesses. If they're crap, clean them!

https://picasaweb.google.com/chris.shot ... directlink

Those do look pretty shitty...

Dood! I completely expect my gear to be in place when I bust out my Orange Juice Project next Saturday! If you don't put my shit back on my project in the order that it was taken off I will consider you a thief! You will be dealt with in the proper manner! YOU HAVE TILL FRIDAY!

can I have those biners..Id like to replace some stuff on my rack.

Definitely not Hugh's draws... not an oval in the bunch and some of them still closed... and some of them matched...

I looked at the photos. Which ones exactly did you think we're questionable. Did you at least leave up new fixed gear?

der uber wrote:I looked at the photos. Which ones exactly did you think we're questionable. Did you at least leave up new fixed gear?

It is not their responsibility to replace the gear that someone else chose to leave.

It is absolutely common courtesy to do so.

i believe that was a joke.... Good call on replacing those. Definitely in really bad shape. I've removed my share of fixed draws and anchor biners for the good of the climbing community. Thanks for helping keep the ignorant safe.

Seen way worse, and climbed on way worse and felt safe on way worse! If anything maybe you should have just replaced a biner or two.