RRC Archives

Another climbing accident in the red. This one fairly serious. In respect for the patient's privacy, no details will be published concerning his condition or nature of injuries.

What can be said is that the subject was climbing at the Sunnyside area in Muir Valley and sustained a 30-foot fall.

This was the third time since being installed a year ago that the Muir Valley Emergency Stations were successfully used to summon help where there is no cell phone service. The FRS 2-way radio was used to call out, and Andrew Jones, a WC SAR team member who was in the Valley and monitoring the emergency frequency responded along with Aaron Hendricks - a Wilderness First Responder who treated the patient.

The WC SAR Team responded, packaged, and transported the patient via the Valley Emergency Road to an awaiting ambulance. He was then taken to an LZ and put onto a helicopter to UK.

Folks, we are seeing more and more climbing accidents in the Red. And, before 17 posters pontificate on this forum as to what is the problem, we need to remember that climbing is exploding in popularity. And, as the numbers grow, so will the accidents. In the past 14 days, Muir has seen over 1800 visitors.

Climbing is dangerous. Be careful. And, most importantly, wherever you climb, have a pre-plan in mind in the event of an emergency. Time can make a life-or-death difference.

A huge thank you to: Aaron, Andrew, and everyone on the WC SAR Team and volunteers who helped in this incident and also to the Access Fund who provided a grant last year to restore the emergency road so that emergency vehicles could quickly access the climbing areas.

Rick Weber

Hi,

I am the guy who had the accident. I was a visiting graduate student in the US, but now I'm back in Italy because of this all situation. I just want to give you my version of what happened that damn day.

I was climbing on "Suppress the Rage" (5.12a) at the Sunny Side, Muir Valley. I was at the second last bolt and I decided to have an active rest before the last hard move (I mean I was not hanging on the rope, I just stopped on the rock). I must admit I started climbing again kind of suddenly, so maybe my belayer was not expecting it. Anyway, when I was less than 1 meter above the bolt I fell off. Before I had the time to realize what was happening, I found myself screaming and hitting the ground with the right leg and then with the butt. Fortunately the rope got tight at the very last second so I didn't have a full impact on the ground. Now I have the pelvis and two vertebras broken. Doctors said I will have a full recovery and I really hope so, cause I think I can't live without climbing!

I've been climbing for more than ten years and I consider myself a pretty experienced climber. Nothing ever happened to me before now! I talked a lot with my belayer and I think it could be helpful to let you know what happened in my opinion.

First of all, he got distracted as soon as I decided to rest for a few seconds (I saw him talking with people while I started falling). Second, I think there was already too much slack on the rope, because it doesn't make sense to take a 12 meters fall, when you're 1 meter above the bolt and should fall no more than 2,50-3 meters. Third, he told me that as soon as he realized I was falling (too late anyway!), he grabbed the rope both above and below the GRI GRI, so I guess the upper grab slowed down the rope's sliding into the GRI GRI and then its activation.

The more time passes the more I get mad at him and at myself. The moral is just something I've been knowing ever since. Sport climbing IS NOT DANGEROUS AS LONG AS YOU PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOU'RE DOING. Guys, just always check out that your belayer knows how to belay properly; GRI GRI is really deceiving, people think it works by itself and just don't pay attention to how to make it function in the correct way! Fatality is part of life, but this is exactly the kind of accident due to distraction and overconfidence in the belay device. It could have been avoided pretty easily.

I have to add that it was the first time I was climbing with this person, so we didn't know each other enough and there was probably lack of good communication. It wouldn't happen to me with my usual climbing mates. If they were there....

In the end I just want to thank all the people (whose names and faces I don't know or remember) from the rescue team who allowed me to get to the hospital in the fastest and safest way! You've been great, efficient and resolute. I wish I could I have a beer with you! Red River Gorge is an amazing place and I really hope to be there again. Thank you everyone!

Francesco

Glad you are well. I bolted that route Francesco, and know it intimately. May I ask if you were going straight up the arete or out right to that final bolt? Also, how long did you active rest before starting again. I always say 'climbing" when I start back after a rest, becasue I know my belayer will be resting their neck while I am resting my forearms.

Again, godspeed on your full recovery.

Your belayer should pay for your medical expenses. Sounds like there was not a super amount of slack paid out. Sounds like your fall surprised your belayer, he had his hand off the brake, he grabbed your end of the rope and this made the grigri fail. This is the usual story. We have heard it before and lamentably we will hear it again.

caribe wrote:Your belayer should pay for your medical expenses. Sounds like there was not a super amount of slack paid out. Sounds like your fall surprised your belayer, he had his hand off the brake, he grabbed your end of the rope and this made the grigri fail. This is the usual story. We have heard it before and lamentably we will here it again.

Agree for mechanics of why he decked. Choose your belayer carefully. Also, climbing safely us also about communication and never assuming anything.

pigsteak wrote:Glad you are well. I bolted that route Francesco, and know it intimately. May I ask if you were going straight up the arete or out right to that final bolt? Also, how long did you active rest before starting again. I always say 'climbing" when I start back after a rest, becasue I know my belayer will be resting their neck while I am resting my forearms.

Again, godspeed on your full recovery.

I didn't tell him "climbing", which is something I usually do almost with everyone. And this was clearly my fault. I don't remember how much did I rest but it was a very short time, like a couple of minutes. By the way, I was going on the right, where all those little crimpers are. Nice route!

francescopesci wrote:Well, I didn't tell him "climbing", which is something I usually do almost with everyone. And this was my fault.

You did not need to say anything. Would 'climbing' mean that your belayer should put his hand back in the brake end of the rope? The hand should never leave the brake. If his hand was on the brake this would not have happened because no gear failed. It really is this simple.

Hope you have a speedy and full recovery.

Belayer error, that is all this is. You have no fault. Get better.

francescopesci wrote:

pigsteak wrote:Glad you are well. I bolted that route Francesco, and know it intimately. May I ask if you were going straight up the arete or out right to that final bolt? Also, how long did you active rest before starting again. I always say 'climbing" when I start back after a rest, becasue I know my belayer will be resting their neck while I am resting my forearms.

Again, godspeed on your full recovery.

I didn't tell him "climbing", which is something I usually do almost with everyone. And this was clearly my fault. I don't remember how much did I rest but it was a very short time, like a couple of minutes. By the way, I was going on the right, where all those little crimpers are. Nice route!

I am glad you are doing "ok" and hope for a quick and full recovery. I don't think this was your fault at all. I have been seeing bigger and bigger loops of slack out on shorter routes over the years. A good belayer would "feel" the rope moving and stay with you, I don't think it was your fault at all...