A first 5.13

[pawilkes]

I set a goal at the beginning of the year to send a 5.13 before moving at the end of May. Half of that time has gone by and I haven't even gotten on one yet so I decided it is time to get down to business. Given my time frame, I can't get on a bunc h of 13a's to find the one that suits me best so I am asking the community of strong folk out there to help me out. I have sent 4 12c's in the last 6 months, most of them in 4 attempts or less. Most of them were of medium length with a short bouldery section with good rests before and/or after the crux. I recover well on good jugs and decent feet but I don't boulder very hard, V4 orV5.

I am thinking of checking out Hoofmaker or Taste the Rainbow from what I've heard about them. I got on Table last year and the crux felt impossible, I'm not great on small crimps. I am looking for any route recommendations, beta or tips from the community. Let the BS begin...

[One-Fall]

You hit the nail on the head with Taste the Rainbow. 3 full no hands rests. Many shake out opportunities. Mostly big holds. 2 crimps.

[SCIN]

You're right about Table. It's tough. Not a gimme 13a.

Hoofmaker might be good. There are lots of options for different beta in the crux.

Taste the Rainbow for sure. Take some time to work out micro beta you might need for the top. Since you're on a time crunch you don't want to keep getting all the way up there and falling. Low cruxes are better for routes you want to do when you're on a time crunch since you can try them more times in a day.

Skin Boat is a popular first 13a. It's pretty enduro though with not a lot of good shakes. Plus the wait on it can be pretty long during the seasons.

Don't forget about Second Nature. It's a low boulder problem to 5.12 or so climbing. The boulder problem is pretty burley though. Maybe like a powerful V5 or V6? But you won't be waiting in line and it's in the shade.

If your core is strong right now and you're good at roof climbing check out Chunnel. No wait and pretty much in the shade. Plus it's at a crag where you can usually get people to go to. Lots of opportunity for good kneebars I hear (I only found one though!). It's a destroyer on the core though so more than two good redpoint burns in a day may be tough.

Fourty Ounces of Justice is a popular first 13a too. Long lines sometimes though and not a good quickie because you could fall up top a few times and it's a tough one to give a lot of tries on in a day if you fall high.

Think about the sun too. You don't want to start working a line right now that's going to be in the sun during your high energy level. I like routes that get afternoon shade in the spring since I'm a late climber.

In my opinion, these 13a lines are ones you should avoid because they're hard for the grade:
Name Dropper
Kya
Easy Rider
Paradise Lost

[aburgoon]

Hey, I think you were there the other week when I did the Hoofmaker. It's a good one. Jugs before and after the low crux, and evenly spaced rests (including kneebar) throughout the rest. Pretty enjoyable, plus goes out the middle of the undertow. If you want the spray down, holler.

[pigsteak]

good luck Phil!

[pawilkes]

beta is more than welcome. send it to me in a PM if you could. i do vaguely remember the beta, something about switching heel hooks.

[climb2core]

A goal of mine for 2011 as well phil, haven't gotten on it but heard spank is another viable alternative... Good luck!!!!

[Andrew]

Phil, I can't imagine it taking you very long to send Hoofmaker. It is definitely the easiest of the 13's I have done.

[heavyc]

if you get on Hoofmaker you will know really quickly if it is doable, because the crux is low and the rest of the route is probably about 12c or less and you are more than capable of that, Good luck!!!

[JR]

I am with heavyc. Hoofmaker!

Taste the Rainbow too!