Page 1 of 5

Friction Slab Illegal?

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 5:51 am
by SLCD
Is climbing on the friction slab illegal? Here is what went down...

Sometime around July of 2010, a buddy and I drove all night to get to the red. It was late by the time we rolled in, but we just weren't tired and had that itch to climb. I had climbed at the friction slab on previous trips, so I suggested we pass up Miguel's and whip out the headlamps for some slab sending before setting up camp. It was maybe sometime between 12am and 3am. We parked the car at that pull off a little way down the road and hiked up to the roadside slab.

We spent maybe 15 minutes climbing the two routes on the front side when a cop car rolled on by going south. We didn't think much of it and continued our climbing. Maybe 5 minutes went by and we saw the cop coming back down the road towards us. He stopped at our parked car, turned on the lights, got out, and proceeded to approach the slab, flashlight in hand. I descended, and walked over to the cop asking him what the problem was, not thinking I was doing anything wrong. He immediately started yelling at us, claiming we were trespassing, breaking the law, etc. etc. He was threatening to take us to jail and everything. My buddy, who isn't as strong of a climber, was still on the slab when the cop yelled at him to get down faster. Under the pressure, my friend slipped and fell, twisting his ankle a bit. The cop then proceeded to tell us, and I quote, "If I ever see you guys or anyone else climbing on this property again, I will not hesitate to cut the rope, I don't care if you are fifty feet up!". I thought this statement was a bit over the top personally.

Needless to say we immediately explained that we were not trying to break any rules and had the upmost respect for the law. I then proceeded to show him the guidebook, and the entry for the friction slab. He seemed to hesitate a bit, as if deciding whether or not to take us in. Luckily he chose to give us a warning and let us go. He claimed that the property was owned by the Natural Bridge State Park and climbing was prohibited, and suggested that the entry be taken out of the guidebook.

I am only writing this because I would like to know if this guy knew what he was talking about, or if he was just bullshitting and giving us climbers a hard time. If it truly is illegal to climb at the friction slab, maybe it should be noted in the guidebook. Anyone have any idea on this one?

Thanks for your insight.

Re: Friction Slab Illegal?

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:47 am
by cliftongifford
just another insecure prick with a badge.
I've never had a problem at friction slab, but I do think it's in the state park, where climbing is prohibited.

why would he cut your rope though, those are boulder problems over there?

Re: Friction Slab Illegal?

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 1:52 pm
by the lurkist
Please write/email the Ky state tourism folks. They need to hear this. They are actively advertising RC as a destination draw for the state but haven't gotten the state parks, whose sole mission is to provide recreation venues and support the development of tourism , to play ball. Enough is enough. Also write your senator and representative and explain the role RC plays in the economy of the Red. I know we have done this before but momentum is building. It needs a push.

Re: Friction Slab Illegal?

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 2:15 pm
by DriskellHR
and people wonder why I dont like cops.......

Re: Friction Slab Illegal?

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 2:27 pm
by Saxman
A perfect example of why having your cell phone record the incident is a good idea.

Re: Friction Slab Illegal?

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 2:44 pm
by tbwilsonky
http://www.trailsrus.com/rockclimbing/E ... 202002.pdf

if you should write a letter, the above might help in citing some 'economic impacts of RC'. the report offers a decent sounding board despite being dated. should you want to jump straight to the heart of this piece, its conclusion comes on page 41 and offers up some tasty bits like this:

IMPLAN analysis conducted by the Forest Service using the data collected in this study
reported a total economic effect in the state of Kentucky of $827,589.00 based on $1 million
annual climber expenditure.

(to put this in perspective: golf generated 700 million last year in KY)

new figures for climbers per year would be really useful as i'm guessing this number is closer to 2-3 million.

t

Re: Friction Slab Illegal?

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 3:17 pm
by RRO
the lurkist wrote:Please write/email the Ky state tourism folks. They need to hear this. They are actively advertising RC as a destination draw for the state but haven't gotten the state parks, whose sole mission is to provide recreation venues and support the development of tourism , to play ball. Enough is enough. Also write your senator and representative and explain the role RC plays in the economy of the Red. I know we have done this before but momentum is building. It needs a push.

Re: Friction Slab Illegal?

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 3:20 pm
by pkananen
Based on the visitors that frequent Natural Bridge, I don't see how legalizing climbing on KY state park land will be good for the climbing community.

Re: Friction Slab Illegal?

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 4:13 pm
by dustonian
pkananen wrote:Based on the visitors that frequent Natural Bridge, I don't see how legalizing climbing on KY state park land will be good for the climbing community.
That doesn't make any sense. It would be good for the climbing community because there is a shitload of good climbing held within Kentucky state park lands... and in the case of Natural Bridge, they keep buying up more land and crags and shutting them down (ie. Pocket Wall).

Re: Friction Slab Illegal?

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 5:27 pm
by toad857
There's no way they'd let climbers back into Natural Bridge SP.