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I am going out to Red Rocks late spring (end of April) and wanted to get your insight. I used to live in Phoenix and climb there a fair bit, but haven't been back since 2002. Looking to do sport climbing and for crags that provide both some moderate routes (5.10 or easy 11) and then some in the hard 12 range. I was going to hit up gumbie gallery and get on the Gift. After that, not sure yet. I think I would prefer to keep the approach under an hour, and find pm shade.

What are your favorite crags/lines?

bump... anyone?

eh

If you want sport, go to the Gallery and environs (way overrated and crowded), then Stratocaster area and Sandstone Quarry. The Trophy, Running Man, and Fear & Loathing are really good in that area. Sunny and Steep wall is really nice, with a mix of sun and shade, steep and featured RRG-like. Black Velvet Canyon, Pine Creek Canyon, and Oak Creek for the best long routes... Black Velvet and Lev 29 are the most "sport-bolted." In general I think the long trad routes there can be better than the short sport... none of it really measures up to the RRG sport-wise. By April you should be able to hit some of the limestone sport areas, which are really better if you want hard sport routes... Mt Charleston, Potosi, etc... go to Clark Mtn if you have a high-clearance rig, best sport in the western US by far.

Thanks Dustin,
I have climbed Mt Charleston and the VRG. Not a fan of climbing above the highway at the VRG and I think Mt Charleston would still be on the chilly and seeping side at end of April? My partner (newbie gf) will be not be climbing much above 5.10. I have been on The Trophy and Fear & Loathing... good routes! Also spent 2 days at Sunny and Steep back in 02 and enjoyed that. I will have a rental car so not sure about Clark Mtn. I will probably just suck it up an buy a guide book. Anyone with insight as to which one to get?

http://www.redrocksguidebook.com/

By far the best guide book. There are some secret multiple-pitch sport routes.

Be sure to go up to Stratocaster. Don't leave without getting on Pablo Diablo (HARD 5.12d!) and Choad Warrior (5.12c) (both pitches). Take the approach from the 3rd pullout if you or your girl might get sketched hiking up steep slabs. I took the directions from rockclimbing.com since the new guidebook only has them from the 2nd pullout.

I didn't make it but I hear Cannabis Crag is a great sunny wall. It's down the canyon from Sunny and Steep. Good 12s there.

If The Gift is packed at The Gallery then jump on Where the Down Boys Go (5.12d). I really liked it and it doesn't share bolts with any of the other lines so the queue isn't so bad. Oh yea, if you get to Sunny and Steep again don't leave without doing Mr. Choad's Wild Ride (5.11c, 100 feet!).

You're welcome to borrow our guidebook too. Shoot me a PM.

SCIN wrote:Be sure to go up to Stratocaster. Don't leave without getting on Pablo Diablo (HARD 5.12d!) and Choad Warrior (5.12c) (both pitches). Take the approach from the 3rd pullout if you or your girl might get sketched hiking up steep slabs. I took the directions from rockclimbing.com since the new guidebook only has them from the 2nd pullout.

I didn't make it but I hear Cannabis Crag is a great sunny wall. It's down the canyon from Sunny and Steep. Good 12s there.

If The Gift is packed at The Gallery then jump on Where the Down Boys Go (5.12d). I really liked it and it doesn't share bolts with any of the other lines so the queue isn't so bad. Oh yea, if you get to Sunny and Steep again don't leave without doing Mr. Choad's Wild Ride (5.11c, 100 feet!).

You're welcome to borrow our guidebook too. Shoot me a PM.

PM Sent, thank you!

Check out the Pier. A few easier routes and then s a bunch of 12s. Shade most of the day and usually has a breeze. The Sandbox is another area with some decent 5.12 climbing that's in the shade. Less easier routes but other cliffs are very close by.

drifter wrote:Check out the Pier. A few easier routes and then s a bunch of 12s. Shade most of the day and usually has a breeze. The Sandbox is another area with some decent 5.12 climbing that's in the shade. Less easier routes but other cliffs are very close by.

Thanks!!! I could not remember the name of a wall I had visited before and really liked.... The Pier! I will check out the other areas online as well...

thanks again.