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Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:44 pm
by NEOD
I've climbed both Iniquity and Cell Block Six and think that Iniquity is EASILY the harder of the two. Do people agree with me? If not, what part/move on cell block is harder than iniquity?
Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:54 pm
by climb2core
I felt the same... but did Iniquity for first time after 3 goes on Cell Block so that could play a large factor. Cell block has the dynamic throw (I can't make the figure four work for me and find the dyno easier) and then the redpoint crux up high which is pretty moderate with any type of rest. Iniquity has a butt ass hard start, gives you that no hands rest, but seems to have more sustained climbing to the chains.
So until I get back on Iniquity fresh this spring I would agree. I personally think Pigsteak just needed to have a sandbag route on his resume.
Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:26 pm
by Rotarypwr345704
I personally think they are both easier than graded. But when two routes right next to each other, in the same style and one has a huge no hands rest in the middle of the route, it's hard to grade that one more difficult.
Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:49 am
by DonnyP
I have only been on Iniquity a hand full of times, and Cell Block Six not at all yet. However, if Cell Block Six is anything like this dude (
http://vimeo.com/11560092) makes it look, it' is WAY easier than Iniquity, considering the hard start. Even if there is a sit-down rest before the red-point crux on Iniquity, getting off the ground on that route is much harder than anything I see on Cell Block Six in this video. Regardless, Iniquity is a great route, and I can't wait to get on Cell Block Six.
Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:02 am
by StepLEFTskyline
I think it depends on how you decide to rate the route. The start is much harder then the grade, i think, the rest of the route is easier then cell block. The grade may not reflect a change in the start of the route since some of the ground may have eroded, i have heard people say that this is the reason fuzzy is getting harder. There are alot of different ways to look at it, i guess.
Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 12:44 pm
by climb2core
DonnyP wrote:I have only been on Iniquity a hand full of times, and Cell Block Six not at all yet. However, if Cell Block Six is anything like this dude (
http://vimeo.com/11560092) makes it look, it' is WAY easier than Iniquity, consider the hard start. Even if there is a sit-down rest before the red-point crux on Iniquity, getting off the ground on that route is much harder than anything I see on Cell Block Six in this video. Regardless, Iniquity is a great route, and I can't wait to get on Cell Block Six.
LOL, DonnyP, come on.... Are you seriously grading a climb by a video? Maybe, maybe you can get an approximate grade from watching a video (ie looks 5.11or 5.12ish) but to distinguish between 12b or 12c, really? You are right that Iniquity is a great route and you do need to get on Cell Block!!! Looking forward to spring
Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 2:02 pm
by toad857
i did iniquity on the first go, but never sent cell block after 6 or 7 tries. cell block is way harder in my opinion.. plus, iniquity has a no-hands rest!
and what about tapeworm? just as hard as cell block, if not easier. but way cooler
Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:06 pm
by JR
I think the grades of all three are accurate. Albeit on the easier side of each.
Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:42 pm
by Green3
I know Iniquity was graded before the break at the start, but after the break, those moves easily warrant 12c. It probably won't ever get changed because everyone is so stubborn to upgrade and seems to just love sandbags (both are often an ego thing, though not always, sometimes it's an absurd sense of tradition, which even I fall prey to, e.g. Soul Ram), but those moves are piss hard for a 12b, definitely not on the "easier side of the grade." Of all the 12b's in the red, I can't think of moves harder. It doesn't matter that it's straight off the ground. You put a 12b-max climber on that and they get shut down, unless they are a boulderer, but then they probably don't clip the chains, because it's pumpy even with the no-hands.
Why is arguing about grades so damn fun? On a separate note, I do think Tapeworm is 12c (Unless you are height impaired, then it's whatever you say it is, cuz you're a bad ass for climbing it.)
Re: Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:45 pm
by toad857
Green3 wrote:I do think Tapeworm is 12c (Unless you are height impaired, then it's whatever you say it is, cuz you're a bad ass for climbing it.)
haha, indeed!