RRC Archives

I am curious to how many pull ups climbers can do relative to what grade they climb. Yeah. Yeah. I know people will say one has nothing to do with the other and I mostly agree with that. Everyone has heard of someone sending 5.10 and they couldn't do a pull up. I have also witnessed people who could do 10+ pull ups and not climb 5.12. But still, I am sure there is at least some correlation.

Probably should specify the type too. I can do 18-20 reverse grip pull ups, but only 10-12 normal and 8 wide grip. I'm assuming it is the difference in the muscles used. Reverse grip feels like more of the bicep is working while normal feels like more of the lat is working? In any case, that is the number I can do. When doing P90x I could do a few more. The pull up workout (I forget which one that is) was on Fridays. I would do over 100 pull ups on Friday then try to go climb on Saturday. Performances ranged from pathetic to really pathetic. I have climbed some 5.12 routes.

Damn Brad that was a fast response!!! Thanks!

random guy: "you're a rock climber? man... I could never do that. I can't even do a pullup!"

me: "yeah, I can't do one either."

my guess is that any statistical correlation between pull-ups and climbing grade is weak or nonexistent. climbing takes place in the legs, fingers, and mind.

I did my grad thesis on Characteristic of Advanced (5.12 and up) and Novice Rock Climbers (5.10 max). In short I tried to compare any significant variable I could think of between the two groups. From there I did a Pearson product correlation and regression analysis of the data. I was able to come up with an equation that was approximately 95% accurate in predicting ones climbing level using the Yosemite decimal system. Pull ups was not one of the 6 or so main determinants of climbing ability.

From memory major factors included (in no particular order)
-Pre to post climb comparisons of pinch and grip strength (used as measure of endurance)
-BMI (there you go Lurkist)
-Climbing training/experience (as a factor of years and days/week)
-Absolute pinch/grip strength/to weight ratio

I did my personal best number of pull ups on a hang board recently at a party. 28. I fell on the 5.11 warm ups at the lode more recently. whatever...

climb2core wrote:Absolute pinch/grip strength/to weight ratio

Seems like that one is key. Everyone talks about these freaks that come out of nowhere and start winning comps or climbing ridiculously hard in a relatively short period of time. Often their grip strength is through the roof. The problem is that these "freaks" are also usually rail thin. I'd be interested to hear stories to the contrary, if anyone knows some. Seems like there are few guys shaped like Sharma or Huber that come out of nowhere with ridiculous ability. There do seem to be more Adam Ondra type stories. Maybe in those cases the climber is just younger and hasn't had time to develop their upper body yet? Something interesting to think about, I guess.

I did an impromtu study at Lex Rocks several years ago. Using a Jamar grip strength tester I tested anyone who was interested. They did a series of 3-4 trials and I took the best one. I compared it to their weight in kg and asked them to self report their best red point.
basically anyone who was a known badass had grip strenght in KgN in 1:1 parity to their weight (so if the weighed 70 kg /140 lbs their grip strength was 70 kgN or greater. ) Most mortals could do slightly greater than half their weight in grip strength.

Pinch/grip endurance was the most significant factor, ahead of pinch/grip power... Specifically for determining sport climbing ability. I am sure that it would be reversed for bouldering. I will try to dig out the regression analysis that gives the relative weighting to each of the factors and post.

Also, not mentioned was the "x" factor. Basically, some climbers climbed harder than their predicted ability while others climbed below it. It all made sense, knowing the peoples' personalities that climbed in the experiment. There were the climbers that were always going for the next move, desperate and to their max ability and then those that were only too happy to say "take". As any climber knows, your head plays a significant role as well. It was interesting to see that borne out in the results.

same basic conclusion. for one season i worked a routine gripping each way through a set of 12-10-8-6-5-4-3-2 for a total of 100, taking about 30 minutes,
don't really remember but a pretty casual pace. didn't see any particular benefit in climbing. whenever that was, i've been attempting 11+ to 12- forever.