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Mistral Climbing Shoes
Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2003 11:50 am
by GWG
I am looking for some advise from those who have used the Mistral climbing shoe in the past.
I have blown through the toe in my shoes and am now having to replace them. I've already had them resoled with much success over a year ago. What shoe do you recommend that has the same sort of fit and feel of the old Mistral? I have tried on several from La Sportiva and 5-10 without much luck. It might be that I've forgotten just how uncomfortable new shoes feel and just need to bite the bullet.
Thanks for any suggestions you can give me.
GWG
Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2003 2:20 pm
by Artsay
I love La Sportiva Miuras. They're quite painful to break in but they are totally worth it. I used to wear Mythos and they are super cozy so if that's what you're looking for those may be your best bet....good shoe, too. The Miuras edge better, though.
Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2003 3:15 pm
by Gretchen
I wish they fit me!
Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2003 4:35 pm
by Horatio Felacio
the katana's are pretty much the same thing as mistrals except yellow and better.
Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2003 5:41 pm
by rhunt
The mistrals were the shit, best shoe I have ever had! I have the katana's and the are ok but maybe try the new testarossa, I have a pair and they are awesome so far...perfect shoe for steep routes at the Red.
Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2003 6:53 pm
by air canada
I'm all for the 5.10 anasazis, except that they tend to fall apart on me. Grrr. They have been the best fitting (for me) shoes that I've had. Great edging and you still get performance at the red.
Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2003 9:44 pm
by Joe Finney
my opinion is that the muiras and testarossas are the best shoes on the maket
Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2003 11:01 pm
by Jeff
I've been looking at the testarosas. Pretty good, eh?
Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2003 5:33 pm
by tomdarch
I learned a few things working at a shop and selling climbing shoes:
1) If you're going for a really tight/good fit, you really need to try on the actual pair of shoes you're going to buy. Climbing shoes are all hand made and can differ a lot from pair to pair. e.g Luigi at the Scarpa plant comes in to work and starts a run of size 40s of such-and-such model. In the morning he's feeling good and pulling the leather and rubber pretty tight against the last. At lunch he has a couple of glasses of wine, and that afternoon, he's a bit tired and he isn't pulling the leather quite so tight. He's still making size 40's, but you'll notice the difference in fit. If you try on a pair at a shop, then mail order it, don't be surprised if they feel a lot different when they arrive. The 'molded sole/rand' models out there will lessen this factor.
2) Your feet are different than other people's/Get the shoes that fit the best. Well, duh. There are going to be lots of models of shoes that work well for almost everyone else, but suck for you. Feet vary a lot and the super tight fit of climbing shoes exagerates all those little differences. Take advice like "Model X is the best shoe I've ever worn - you should get 'em!" with a grain of salt. Factor in everyone's feedback on shoes, but remember that it's your feet and your style of climbing you're trying to fit. Also, if you are comparing a few models of shoes that are all in the ballpark for what you want the shoes to do, get the shoes that fit the best - not the ones with the best color scheme or the ones that Billy Climbinhard wears in the ads or what the magazine recomends.
Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2003 5:39 pm
by Guest
just get Miuras. They will contort your feet to fit in them and you will climb so well that you won't care about your gnarled toe knuckles.