New rule

[SCIN]

The Sport Climbing Ethics Committee (SCEC) has established a new rule (221.c) based on many observations this season which states the following:

You are not allowed to say "almost onsited" if either of the following conditions are met:

a. You did not send quickly on the next go (2 tries max) after a short rest. This proves that you did not still have the ability to continue on to the chains had you performed the correct sequence. If you take more than 2 attempts to redpoint the route then you didn't almost onsite the route. You were very far from onsiting the route.

b. You fell at the last move on the route. It is very common in the Red River Gorge to fall near the anchors. These are endurance routes.

c. The route is in the Lode. You know you've watched someone on it, don't play.

Regards,

SCEC

[aburgoon]

c. The route is in the Lode. You know you've watched someone on it, don't play.

[One-Fall]

I have quit yelling "Victory Whip" when I am only at the third bolt.

[bcombs]

I have quit yelling "Victory Whip" when I am only at the third bolt.

1-2-3 Trust Fall!!!

[tbwilsonky]

counting to 3 on trust falls is for the timid.

also this new rule shouldn't apply to:
1) people who are fluffing their ego for the sake of love
2) drunk people
3) people who would have onsighted if they had 'known there was a jug right after that heinous pinch".

[JR]

I almost onsighted High Hard One before the broken hold. I was staring at the chains to the right looking for a right foot to perch on to clip. I didn't find a foot. Struggled for a bit and grabbed the chains. Clipped. So sad. Would have been my best onsight. I then realized that the clipping hold was to the left. O jeez. Then I remembered that SCIN had told me earlier in the year that the clipping hold was straight left on one of the undertow routes. O boy. After a long rest, I didn't make it to the chains. Another long rest, I didn't make it to the chains. Came back another day. Still didn't make it to the chains. And on the third day....I sent. Yeah!

[gripster]

So if SCIN gave you this beta, then you can't onsite anything on the undertow wall now, correct?

[stix]

we watched a climber from the new give hoofmaker an onsight push and fell at the chains after pumping out trying to clip. he had declared an onsight before he ever hit the ground with praise from his girlfriend who was belaying for a terrific 13a onsight. we knew his name and that he keeps an 8a scorecard. also, because i have little else to do other than stalk climbers, knew the girlfriend had lied about sends and onsights before. we checked his scorecard the next day, just as i had done with the girlfriend in the past, and sure enough he took points for an onsight of hoofmaker.

remember....if you're gonna talk shit, lie, and take points for your climbs make sure you know who's watching and that i have no greater pleasure than calling you out if i catch it.

enjoy the new eddie and rachel!

[bcombs]

This just became thread of the year.

[Andrew]

But that was his first 13a onsight.