RRC Archives

if you are one of the real climbers who commiteed to training this past summer, are you happy with the progress and dividends this fall? If so, what worked. If not, what would you change.

If you did not train, and are now complaining about running out of good temps to send, I've got nothing.

For the long version, ill meet you for dinner somewhere.
Quick version: I got a new highpoint for me this season, and the lower graded climbs are coming easier. But I seem to pick projects that have a crux at my boulder limit. I hope to be able to change that limit this winter so I have a more productive spring. Fun factor, however, was at an all time high.
What worked: The bouldering and hangboard (just needed more of both). Also had good aerobic endurance this year for me.
What I missed: I needed more high intensity anerobic endurance and recovery ability. I also misjudged how many tries it was going to take to go from one fall to sending.

My story: (you asked) Turned 40 this year and hadn't touched rock or plastic in over 8 years until the middle of March this year. Before I quit I was just getting strong on low 12's. First time outside was Mid May and I couldn't get up a 10 without hanging at least 2-3 times.

My Training: Trained 2-3 days/wk. Bouldered for 1st couple of months, then spent most of summer just doing laps inside (progressively more power enduro) and climbing till I couldn't hang on anymore whenever I got out. I also started jumping on hard 11's and easy 12's by end of May. Lots of hang dogging at first, but it helped me to realize where I needed to be if I wanted to climb at that grade.

My Results: Sent my first 12 (again) 6 months after starting back. So, yeah I would have to say that I am happy with the results. Not sure what to change, thought I did the best I could considering I have 2 young boys and own a business. Oh, In July, I got a girlfriend that loves to climb... that was more important than any training decision.

Going to spend 4 days at Torrent this week... psyched to get on the 12 wall.

I didn't train and I am climbing as strong as ever. Didn't project anything easier, I just got on routes and crushed. Eat that old man.

I'll let you know after tomorrow. 7 degree dew point and 29% humidity at 1:00 Looks like sending weather.

Andrew wrote:I didn't train and I am climbing as strong as ever. Didn't project anything easier, I just got on routes and crushed. Eat that old man.

LMAO, first, I will assume you are talking to me. Ok, crusher. You have been fucking around at the same 13 grade for the last 3 years. You are stagnant, at best. 13b, that wasn't even pushing the grade a decade ago. Talk all the shit you want, try to put down other climbers. Just makes you come across as even more of a douche.

Ian

sorry Ian, but you need to loosen up the sand in your...well, anyway....Andrew was talking tome. He loves me like that.

pigsteak wrote:sorry Ian, but you need to loosen up the sand in your...well, anyway....Andrew was talking tome. He loves me like that.

That is funny. Couldn't figure out why a kid that cranks 13 would bust on some guy he doesn't know that is barely climbing 12. Post came right after mine, and thought the post was for me as I had mentioned that I am now an old man of 40.

Pigsteak, thanks for the clarification, and Andrew my apologies!!! I retract all statements made, but will leave it up for the humor, if you don't mind.

Ian

no worries Ian...I am 43 and still run circles around Andrew....he is just pissed cause he lives in Ohio.

That was some funny shit right there.Climb2core relax bud, Andrew will be your best friend the day you forget your stick clip.