RRC Archives

Zen and the Art of Masturbation (at The Gallery) has had someone's draws on it since [at least] last season. The have crossed the line from "project draws" to "perma-draws." The draws are in bad shape so my partner hung his own to work the climb. We have decided to leave the draws off of the climb because they are in such bad shape. Most of the gates do not function well, runners are aging, and some 'biners are worn. There seemed to be draws from two people because there are two different brands and also one of the sets is marked with colored tape. The unmarked draws were left on the first couple bolts because they weren't in as bad of shape. We have taken the marked set.

Also, we removed some aluminum biners from the anchor chains because they were worn halfway through. Ridiculous!

1. If the draws are yours and you would like them back, please PM me and we will return them (provided you tell me brand and the tape color(s)). Sorry if this causes any inconvenience, but they certainly were not safe to leave there and I dont want someone to get hurt from trying to climb on them.
2. Please do not leave draws on climbs if they are in bad shape. If you are going to perma-draw a climb, it needs to be done the right way.
3. Watch your anchors! Dont lower off of worn 'biners, and rappel whenever possible!

"last season"..would that be Spring of 2010 or Fall 2009?

Spring 2010. First saw them on the climb in March. They were hung on bolts 4 through 9.

I don't think you need to apologize. Gear that is left on a climb over night is technically "abandoned", and if they are left for several months, and are in bad shape, they become a safety hazard and inconvenience to others who would like to climb the route. Thank you for cleaning up someone else's trash.

I hung the draws on Zen but they originally belonged to Andrew Gearing so contact him if your trying to find who to give them back to. The draws have been there for four years now, not since last season, so it's no wonder they were in bad shape. When they were initially hung they were in good condition however I'm sure that after lots of people trying the route over the last four years that they have gotten pretty worn. When someone hangs "perma-draws" it is not their responsibility to go back to the route and make sure that they are still in good condition after years of use. They are hung for the benefit of everyone else who wants to try the route and it becomes everyone's responsibility to make sure that they climb on gear that is still in good shape. Thanks for taking them off since they were obviously too worn to still be up, but just keep in mind that the condition in which you find fixed gear is usually not the way it was put up.

The honorary safety police are in full force!!!

need to find a new name..perma draw is not permanent...and this is onr more example why it is a terrible precedent.

jaws draws. "clip at your own risk".

You know what would be rad? If folks started doing ascents of hard routes hanging the draws! Holy shit! That would be bad ass!

No shit Hugh!