RRC Archives

I Saw some kids at military the other day that had built a pile of cheater stones over 3 ft tall at the start of fuzzy undercling.I left before them but if i had to guess i would say they left it standing or else I would have trundled it down the hill my self. At what point do/should you just give up and batman up the rope? Before you set the cheater stones

the erosion at the bottom of fuzzy has changed the start of the rout dramatically, 3ft may be too high, but cheater stones are required or most people to keep it 11b.

I always bring a ladder so I can climb past any crux I cant figgure out.

trundle it? why would you do that? especially on a route like fuzzy, you know that someone else is going to replace the cheater stones.. so why bother? it only makes the problem worse. just step around them.

i suppose you go around breaking stick clips, too?

http://vimeo.com/12458181

This is lame, cheater stones are lame(hence the name), stick clips are lame(sissy sticks?), F-ing up the rock with chalk and bolts is lame, eroded cliff lines are lame.

I am lame. You are lame. It is all part of the game(no rhyme intended).

No cheater stones... who cares if you have to change a grade? outta be more of that going on anyway. who gives a crap if it is one of the most recognized 11b's at the red?... it'll be just as popular at 11c.

Justin, is that seriously the start of that climb in the video? if so i'll head out there and chip a few holds in for those people... don't worry, i'll chip out 12d holds so as not to effect the grade.

I don't have a problem with that at all. I've walked past alot of cliff this summer that if people were willing to tram up to a first bolt and climb from there, it would be some of the best climbing around. Regarding Fuzzy, if you are average height and use no cheater stones it doesn't just bump it up to 11c. It would by far be the hardest moves on the route.

nothing wrong with it IF he doesn't claim to have sent the rig....if he is climbing for fun, then coolio.

and Fuzzy used to start off a tree then stump before the erosion....

bcombs..please do not add to the confusion and the rules of climbing with tram starts....

stick clips=safer. Less chance of hitting the ground.
Cheater stones= more dangerous. Placing a boulder under the first bolt so you can skip the hard moves increases your chances of hitting the ground if you were to blow the second clip.

if you need them at least clean up you mess after you