dihedral right of Physical Graffiti

Post by **Danny** » Mon Jul 21, 2003 5:53 am

Has the obvious dihedral just right of Physical Graffiti ever been done? Anyway it is pretty darn good. From the ground it looks like an offwidth but you don't actually have to use any offwidth technique. The start is the hardest part (probably about 10c) but cool. You start down under the roof, grab a jug and stretch up to a hand jam. Getting into the main crack is pretty cool and has a money pocket you can use. The crack is separated inside with a hand size subcrack you can use. It widens up further but you have good feet. There's a rap sling at the top. After the start it's about 5.9. It didn't seem to have been climbed cause the chipping flakes and the mass of rodos at the exit move.

Post by **Huggybone** » Mon Jul 21, 2003 4:51 pm

Thats 'War Emblem' Captain static and I did its first ascent last spring. I thought it was pretty damn cool as well. The rodos at the end are the finishing touch. It would certainly benifit from a set of anchors.

Post by **Huggybone** » Mon Jul 21, 2003 4:52 pm

But I don't think we left a rap sling, so someone else must have climbed it since then.

Post by **Danny** » Mon Jul 21, 2003 5:30 pm

I'd suggest climbing it on a really hot day because it has a blast of 55 degree air pouring out of the first half. You can just hang out in the crack and chill via the natural air conditioning.

Did you guys do the start the same way? What did you think the rating was?

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Jul 21, 2003 6:20 pm

Was that the free ascent that wasn't free?

Post by **Huggybone** » Mon Jul 21, 2003 8:23 pm

Nope dude, It was 100% free. Start took my a few tries, but I pulled and reset my gear for the last try. Did sombody aid it in the past? You might be thinking of the offwidth that shut me down at hen's nest.

I tried the start two ways- one was using a sidpull (I think) and dynoing over my head onto the sloper. Not too hard, but I couldn't do it with my rack on, so I did it this way (which took me a few tries): Fistjam with my left hand, do a quasi one arm pullup, rest my waist on the lip, turn to a palm up fistjam, and slide up more. Then I did a pinch/fingerlock thing that felt all of 11a, the rest was just fun 5.9. But, I had not climbed 11a yet, but I felt it much harder than Return of Geoff Beene.

I love the sinker pocket. You can fit your (forearm)*edit) in that thing.

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Jul 21, 2003 8:26 pm

That sounds cool. I'll have to check it out.
What's this at Hens Nest?

Post by **Danny** » Tue Jul 22, 2003 12:52 am

Hmmm... I don't remember any fist size stuff. Of course, if I see somewhere to put my fist I usually keep looking. Here is a picture of the bottom section

http://siren.bio.indiana.edu/images/cli ... 070-50.jpg

The crack at the bottom right is actually a horizontal roof and the lip is around where that lower plant is. There's a good hold somewhere beneath that plant that you can use to reach up and get a hand jam with.

here's another perspective with some of the upper part

http://siren.bio.indiana.edu/images/cli ... 071-50.jpg

Post by **Huggybone** » Tue Jul 22, 2003 1:46 pm

Yep, that's it for sure. Its a really tight fest jam right by the lowest plant.

Post by **Huggybone** » Tue Jul 22, 2003 2:13 pm

At hens nest, around to the far right, past all the other climbs. Its a 5.9 ish OW (possibly 5.8). Its got a little roof off a ledge. I was slinging long (worried about the rope on the lip of the crack), and I was reaching for a knob at the end of the hard part, and I slid me knee onto the rope, halting my momentum, and crached into the lip of the little roof, Bloddy shins, arms, shoulders and teeth. Its a pretty obvious line, so It may have seen an ascent, but I don't know.

For some more adventure craging, walk the saddle to the left of hen's nest and you will see a number of VERY hard looking lines.