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Help from the boulderers out there . . .

Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 12:09 am
by One-Fall
Can you step out on a limb and give what you think certain problems within routes would be rated? Just to get started:

Ro, Strevels, Tic Tac Toe, TOC, TOC direct, Wild Yet Tasty, Dinosaur, Samurai, Nicoderm, First 3 bolts of the Legend, Hoofmaker, Harvest, Take That Katie Brown, Aquaduct Pockets . . . pretty much any route with a discernable crux.

thanks for the help!

Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 12:35 am
by camhead
All of the cruxes are v4. But some of the v4's are harder than others.

Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 1:11 am
by SCIN
My memory is bad but here's my guess:

Ro - V3
Strevels - V4-V5
Tic Tac Toe - V4-V5
TOC Direct - V5-V6 (bottom)
Samurai - V4
Nicoderm - V15
Legend - V6-V7
Hoofmaker - V4-V5
Harvest - V3? (no defined crux really)
Golden Touch - V6-V7 (height dependent)
Falls City - V7-V8

Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 1:23 am
by pigsteak
notice how SCIN doesn't answer the routes you asked for, but throws in those he walks in sneakers...interesting.

Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 1:25 am
by SCIN
I answered every route he wanted and added in a couple extra I remember. You just don't understand the hip abbreviations that Lee used.

Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 1:27 am
by pigsteak
Wild Yet Tasty? What was the hip abrev....River City Falls?

Dinosaur?..geesh, you old farts have Alzheimers....

Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 2:33 am
by Meadows
Man, I boulder better than I think I do. Thanks, Ray! Dave probably thinks they're all V1, although he thinks the start of Iniquity is V10.

Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 3:08 am
by crayon
Iniquity start is maybe hard (and painful) V4 or V5--feels super shitty in the summer, though. A lip broke off of the slopey pocket thing out left that the first move is to; maybe it was easier before?

Wild, Yet Tasty seemed like a hard V3.

Aquaduct--maybe hard V2?

Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 3:18 am
by JR
camhead wrote:All of the cruxes are v4. But some of the v4's are harder than others.
I concur*. I have no idea why V4 is the magic number for the Red. The few routes that have moves harder than v4, I would call height dependent v4.

*All routes in the 5.12 range.

Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 2:45 pm
by schwagpad
The first couple moves on A Clean Well-lighted Face are hard. V10?
Revival crux - v5-v6
Second Nature - V7-V8