RRC Archives

I am sure this has been discussed on here numerous times but here goes.

Could some one point me to a link for past discusses how Trad ratings compare to sport ratings.

Just to save you time, they are the same.

Andrew, is right!

andrew is right they are the same thing just your prefrence who knows.......not me climbing is climbing different styles have different configurations who know not me...

I thought they were supposed to be the same scale, but in my experience, they are not. Take Eureka, at Global Village: it seems apropriately rated at 5.6 trad (I just lead it on gear a few weeks ago), but as a sport route, everyone says it's a little stout. Father and Son, I can agree with as 5.7 trad, but Vision is much harder. I was really glad I wasn't leading Vision. I took on gear on Into the Purple Valley (supposedly 5.8), although I can send it on TR (it still feels hard). I couldn't even get up New Yosemite (5.9 at the New) on TR without cheating, and yet, I've sent a handful of 5.11a sport routes at the Red. Sure, my hand-jamming technique could probably use some work, but there shouldn't be THAT much difference. I mean a lot of 5.9 trad routes feel as hard as hard .11 sport routes to me. That's like 6 grades harder. On the other hand, I remember TRing 5.7 and 5.8 trad at Tennessee Wall when I was newbie, so maybe the ratings there are more comparable to the sport ratings at the Red.

Into the Purple Valley, 5.8 - it converted 8 + ) to smiley face 5. 8)
Anyway, the whole rating system is a mess; it's different everywhere, dependent on peoples strengths and weaknesses, and you'll never be able to adjust for height differences, whatever.

grasshopper- you must feel - not think

Same; yet different.

Forget about the fucking ratings and just climb. Find a line that inspires you to get on it and just fucking get on it. Who cares what it's rated? Who cares if you fall? Who cares if you "onsight" it? Have an adventure. Run shit out. Stick clip every bolt. Just climb. Be nice to other people. And then have a pizza and beer after.

jenbongo wrote:I thought they were supposed to be the same scale, but in my experience, they are not. Take Eureka, at Global Village: it seems apropriately rated at 5.6 trad (I just lead it on gear a few weeks ago), but as a sport route, everyone says it's a little stout. Father and Son, I can agree with as 5.7 trad, but Vision is much harder. I was really glad I wasn't leading Vision. I took on gear on Into the Purple Valley (supposedly 5.8), although I can send it on TR (it still feels hard). I couldn't even get up New Yosemite (5.9 at the New) on TR without cheating, and yet, I've sent a handful of 5.11a sport routes at the Red. Sure, my hand-jamming technique could probably use some work, but there shouldn't be THAT much difference. I mean a lot of 5.9 trad routes feel as hard as hard .11 sport routes to me. That's like 6 grades harder. On the other hand, I remember TRing 5.7 and 5.8 trad at Tennessee Wall when I was newbie, so maybe the ratings there are more comparable to the sport ratings at the Red.

Trad is easier when you don't stop and place gear every three feet.