RRC Archives

I'm just wondering what kind of opinion people have about using a gri gri with a rope smaller than 10mm. I have heard a lot of people say a 9.8 is totally legit, and that some people have even climbed with a 9.2 and a gri gri. I'm just wondering what the consensus is; is petzl just covering their ass, or is climbing on less than a 10 significantly more dangerous?

under 9.8mm with a slightly used gri-gri, and a climber under 125lbs.(guesstimate) equals slippage. especially the dry-treated ropes.

seen it, experienced it (as the belayer)[i'm no 125lbs kid]

with that combo it really is imperative to keep a brake hand on the rope.

I haven't belayed someone on, or climbed on a rope larger than 9.8 for awhile and I use a gri-gri. One thing to keep in mind if using a skinnier rope is to make sure to use a think pear biner with the gri-gri. Something like a Omega Jake or Petzl Attache. A skinner biner will let the device move just a bit more before the cam engages.

I use a 9.8 with a Gri-Gri, and it works fine. you have a to be a tiny bit more careful on the belay, but overall it works just fine.

I wouldn't go too much lower, though. just as a personal preference.

my 9.7 PMI slipped a little when it was new, but it has fattened up and hasn't slipped at all since the first week or so. but, as has been stated before many times, keep your hand on the brake as if you were using an ATC. the brake hand never needs to leave the rope, so 'slipping' shouldn't be an issue. right?

my 9.4 is scary even for me.

learned i really don't like it in an ATC

I use smaller then 10 with my grigri all the time. Mostly 9.8, but a lot with 9.5ish. It catches a fall fine, it may SLOWLY feed through after the fall, but nothing a brake hand cant easily stop. I always remind my belayer when they are using a smaller rope that if feeds faster when lowering. I think lowering can be a bigger problem then the falling...

I use a sterling 9.5 rope with my grigri all the time. I usually warn people about the diameter of the rope before I climb and to be careful. I've only had one incident where my belayer said there was some slippage.

ok, i'm just being a bitch at this point, but.. it seems widely accepted that dangerous activity is ok as long as one manages hazards and limits exposure. but are saving a few ounces on rope weight (and higher rope retirement rate?) worth the redpoint success rate? skinny ropes seem a poor gambit to me.

clif, yes