RRC Archives

Has anyone been on this route? The online guide is a little sparse for info, and the crack looks like it totally closes down leaving a pretty long run-out to the ledge. Otherwise it's one of the most aesthetic finger cracks I've seen in the red.

Yea, it's a big move out left at the top. Kind of run out. Sporty move.

Is this route as good as it looks in the photo?

The route is fun. I remember cleaning it by rapping from the top of the tree that is nearby. Yeah the top of the tree. Pretty funny having your anchor swaying because of wind.

You can place a cam above the big move left, but its easy at that point, and not sure the rock there would hold anyway...

dustonian wrote:Is this route as good as it looks in the photo?

is that sarcasm? looks green in the pic.

it actually is super clean, you start by going up the right side of a detached flake, then head into a ~purple c4 crack. the crack really thins out to a knifeblade seam, and about 10ft of blank face to a large horizontal ledge. the "big move" left must be to a horizontal like 6ft to the left. it was a little scary with an ancient rusted bail nut about halfway up.

we couldn't see the "anchor tree" above the route.

The anchor tree is not above the route. It is next to the route rooted near the base of the climb. Am I making this more confusing?

Climbers at the Red are so starved for finger cracks that are not located in a dirty corner this route passes for pretty damn good.

true dat JR... the NRG guidebook had me salivating yesterday.

there is a good thread hole right over the route that can be safely slung for tr'ing.

Trees and thread holes...Fucking trad.... It is so memorable for some reason....

I am with you Dustonian. I was doing the same thing. That book is a whopper.