gear
Check out this thread:
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?t=1220
It gets way out of hand (of course!) but there are some useful elements there. It's about what you can lead easily with 'passive' gear (just to be clear: 'passive' gear is stuff like nuts and hexes, as opposed to 'active' gear like cams - gizmos like the amazing Camp Tri-Cams fall somewhere in between)
While you're at it, do a bunch of sport leading. It will make you stronger, but more importantly, it will help you a lot in dealing with the basics of leading. It's like learning how to drive on an automatic, as opposed to stick shift. For me, I top roped until I didn't need to 'think' much about the act of climbing, then started sport leading. I pretty much had the 'leading' part of sport climbing down before I started trad leading. If you're new to leading, it's really tough to simultaneously think about all the issues of leading and placing gear at the same time. Also, the consequences of screwing up when trad leading can be greater! Plus, everyone (sane) has a fair amount of psychological 'freakage' going on when they lead that makes getting good placements even harder.
Before you spend a lot on gear, climb with other people and use their cams, etc. to figure out what works well for you.
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?t=1220
It gets way out of hand (of course!) but there are some useful elements there. It's about what you can lead easily with 'passive' gear (just to be clear: 'passive' gear is stuff like nuts and hexes, as opposed to 'active' gear like cams - gizmos like the amazing Camp Tri-Cams fall somewhere in between)
While you're at it, do a bunch of sport leading. It will make you stronger, but more importantly, it will help you a lot in dealing with the basics of leading. It's like learning how to drive on an automatic, as opposed to stick shift. For me, I top roped until I didn't need to 'think' much about the act of climbing, then started sport leading. I pretty much had the 'leading' part of sport climbing down before I started trad leading. If you're new to leading, it's really tough to simultaneously think about all the issues of leading and placing gear at the same time. Also, the consequences of screwing up when trad leading can be greater! Plus, everyone (sane) has a fair amount of psychological 'freakage' going on when they lead that makes getting good placements even harder.
Before you spend a lot on gear, climb with other people and use their cams, etc. to figure out what works well for you.
Rack for the red.
The red gives itself to climbing with Passive pro. If you are budget minded, buy 1' and 2' runners (cheaper & better than 4" draws for trad) a set of nuts (BD #4-13 or Eq) and a set of hexes #6-10 and the smallest 3 tricams. Climb well below your TR limit for a while and the occasional small spot where you can 'only' get a cam won't bug you.
I lead that way in the red for 3 years before I got a cam. You can protect MOST of the hard routes like that too. Obviously, there are exceptions, and slamming in a cam is easier than placing and setting a trican, so think it all over.
I think John Long's Climbing ANchors book is a great read. Take the book and read it cover2cover, then take it to the cliff with your shiney gear and go play near the ground to test it all out & get used to size selections.
Cheers.
I lead that way in the red for 3 years before I got a cam. You can protect MOST of the hard routes like that too. Obviously, there are exceptions, and slamming in a cam is easier than placing and setting a trican, so think it all over.
I think John Long's Climbing ANchors book is a great read. Take the book and read it cover2cover, then take it to the cliff with your shiney gear and go play near the ground to test it all out & get used to size selections.
Cheers.
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Uncle Big Green
- Posts: 159
- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 8:55 pm
I agree with Bubb, except don't buy BD Stoppers. Get WC Rocks and/or DMM Wallnuts (they run the same sizes). DMM are a little less beginner oriented, however. Either is better than BD (so much for ever getting a job there).
When you buy your first set of cams, go with BD. After that, get WC Friends for your 2nd set (anyone with 3 sets of Camalots and no Friends is an inept wanker). In the small stuff, pretty much all the mfgs have their act together. 4 yrs ago, you would get either Aliens or TCUs for your first set of small stuff and the other for your 2nd.
When you buy your first set of cams, go with BD. After that, get WC Friends for your 2nd set (anyone with 3 sets of Camalots and no Friends is an inept wanker). In the small stuff, pretty much all the mfgs have their act together. 4 yrs ago, you would get either Aliens or TCUs for your first set of small stuff and the other for your 2nd.
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