Free Soloing. What is your view?
Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 3:46 am
When I was fifteen, before I had ever done any form of legit rock climbing, either traditional or sport, two of my buddies and I free soloed a 50 foot chimney in a holler in my hometown.
Two years ago, on a scouting trip to the same holler, I found the same chimney and thought that I was a complete idiot for ever freesoloing it, and talking my buddies into to doing it with me no less. At 15, I downclimbed it to get back down, and still today I can remember the thrill of doing it. (My friends walked a mile or so along the top of the cliffline to find a place to get down).
Today, with more experience technique and strength, I would not freesolo the same chimney. I know the thrill of free-soloing. I have done low grade routes in the Red. But priorities have changed. I see ynp1's view. There is a thrill. It is super pure. There is a desire to test yourself. Just you and the rock.
But it should not be done to prove how badass you are, to show off and pound your chest and make yourself look cool in front of others. (I am not saying that is your motivation ynp1). It shouldn't be an ego thing.
We all know of strong experienced climbers, and inexperienced souls (like this recent death) that died in "accidents." In this case and all similar cases I would not call them accidents. They were incidents where the person now dead, died. And everyone they knew now has to deal with their decision to test nature without checks and balances. In the end nature will win. (We all die). The deciding factor each of us can have is how we wanted to go out. Would you rather have a long happy life of adventure come to an end from old age, or die in a freesoling death incident? In the death after a long life there will be those that remember you as adventurous and inspirational. In the other there will be debate. There will be those that said she lived on the edge, and that is to be admired, and then there will be those that say you are a dead idiot.
In both cases, you will leave loved ones behind, but in the free soloing death your loved ones will always wish that you hadn't decided to freesolo your life away. Even if while you are alive they accept what you do, in your absence they will wish you are still around to continue participating in this adventure called life.
I know that in the future I will probably do some stupid things, like highball boulder, or maybe even some easy freesolo, and when I get down I will think that I was very stupid for doing so. I will feel regret for placing my own desire above the desires my son, my wife, my parents and siblings, to have me to continue life with them.
So in the end, I probably side with Weber, but realize the thrill and desire of ynp1. It is anybody's choice to do as they please. In the case of free soloing I think it should not be done out of your selfish desire. It should probably not be done at all. But if so, think first of your loved ones and then yourself.
Two years ago, on a scouting trip to the same holler, I found the same chimney and thought that I was a complete idiot for ever freesoloing it, and talking my buddies into to doing it with me no less. At 15, I downclimbed it to get back down, and still today I can remember the thrill of doing it. (My friends walked a mile or so along the top of the cliffline to find a place to get down).
Today, with more experience technique and strength, I would not freesolo the same chimney. I know the thrill of free-soloing. I have done low grade routes in the Red. But priorities have changed. I see ynp1's view. There is a thrill. It is super pure. There is a desire to test yourself. Just you and the rock.
But it should not be done to prove how badass you are, to show off and pound your chest and make yourself look cool in front of others. (I am not saying that is your motivation ynp1). It shouldn't be an ego thing.
We all know of strong experienced climbers, and inexperienced souls (like this recent death) that died in "accidents." In this case and all similar cases I would not call them accidents. They were incidents where the person now dead, died. And everyone they knew now has to deal with their decision to test nature without checks and balances. In the end nature will win. (We all die). The deciding factor each of us can have is how we wanted to go out. Would you rather have a long happy life of adventure come to an end from old age, or die in a freesoling death incident? In the death after a long life there will be those that remember you as adventurous and inspirational. In the other there will be debate. There will be those that said she lived on the edge, and that is to be admired, and then there will be those that say you are a dead idiot.
In both cases, you will leave loved ones behind, but in the free soloing death your loved ones will always wish that you hadn't decided to freesolo your life away. Even if while you are alive they accept what you do, in your absence they will wish you are still around to continue participating in this adventure called life.
I know that in the future I will probably do some stupid things, like highball boulder, or maybe even some easy freesolo, and when I get down I will think that I was very stupid for doing so. I will feel regret for placing my own desire above the desires my son, my wife, my parents and siblings, to have me to continue life with them.
So in the end, I probably side with Weber, but realize the thrill and desire of ynp1. It is anybody's choice to do as they please. In the case of free soloing I think it should not be done out of your selfish desire. It should probably not be done at all. But if so, think first of your loved ones and then yourself.