RRC Archives

There is a new route at the gunsight notch that just got its first ascent this weekend by Laban Swofford of Chatanoga Tn.Its name is Dirty Sanchez. 5.12b.
Its location is at the gunsight notch.You pass it on the way to second nature.
4 bolts 60 ft(the first bolt is 20 ft up)bring a stick clip.It starts on the arete at a slopey pocket on the right.heel hook left,intermediate left hand crimps.to a tooth on the arete.match hands,cut, then reset feet.hard barndoorish layback left.pinch the arete (like you are choking a little girl!!) then stand up on the previously mentioned tooth.gas a little.work the arete then step left to a ledge.clip the 2nd bolt.gas up, then back out to the arete. work up to a slopey dish.right foot in the dish.left foot flagging.right hand on the arete.reach accross to a 7 finger slot.stance then clip the 3rd bolt.Crimp rails to the top.

There goes any possibility of onsite.

that's why I like my short term memory, I can hear or read all the beta in the world and by the time I get to the climb I have forgotten it all. It even works for some of the routes I have climbed. Sometimes it is a curse though.

I just love when people spray about routes at super top secret areas. Makes me feel all warm and tingly and inferior all at the same time.

Hey guys, I'm not a sport climber but I do know where all these little choss crags are and I'm gonna come steal all your draws.

SCIN wrote:There goes any possibility of onsite.

yeah, it's so top secret that everyone knows about it, a road goes straight to it, and he posted it on the internet. besides, how would you possibly get up them wickeddick?

With a stick clip, or maybe I'd just hike up on top, rappel down and super glue all the gates on all the draws just for fun.