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Pro blogs

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:07 am
by One-Fall
DPM has a thread right now about what it means to be a pro climber. In it they talk about pros that give tips on how to improve your climbing.

Any thoughts on blogs that offer words of wisdom in the way of training?

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:00 am
by pigsteak
is climbing a sport or hobby? if it is a sport, you have to keep score, make a pecking order of best to worst climbers, rank/compare yourself to other climbers and to your previous performances.

if it is a hobby, then quit pretending like it is a sport, and that you don't care.

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:23 am
by mike_anderson
"There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games."

Now the question becomes, how does rock sports climbing compare to mountaineering?

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:24 am
by mike_anderson
PS, Dave McLeod and Steve Bechtel both have excellent advice on their blogs.

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:56 am
by bcombs
mike_anderson wrote:"There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games."

Now the question becomes, how does rock sports climbing compare to mountaineering?
Winston knew what the steep was about....

“There are two things that are more difficult than making an after-dinner speech: climbing a wall which is leaning toward you and kissing a girl who is leaning away from you.â€

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:09 pm
by toad857
that's hilarious

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 12:27 am
by One-Fall
one post? piggie, you derail my thread in one post? Dont most threads make it at least to five?

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:25 pm
by kafish2
Here are some blogs/sites that mention some key training advice.

Mike Doyle's has a big PDF training article. http://www.mikedoyle.ca/

Paul Robinson's has a nice hangboard workout he used when he was out for an ankle injury. p-d-robinson.blogspot.com/

Ethat Pringle's has some good hangboard workouts as well. www.ethanpringle.com/

Moonclimbing had a training blog for its crew, it stopped being updated long ago but may have some good stuff for you. http://www.moonclimbing.co.uk/school-room-c-334.html

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:50 pm
by Barnacle Ben
Eric Horst has a shit ton of training articles by way of nicros' website. Pretty sure I first saw that from a link posted on this site, so thanks to whoever put that up.

http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:57 pm
by dmw
Alli's blog is really interesting most of the time. She definitely has a very holistic approach to climbing... incorporates a lot of different ideas and thoughts into her blog.
www.allirainey.com