RRC Archives

So I decided to try The Gift at Long Wall on sunday. I have been able to finish the four 5.12a's I've been on, and the printed guide book called it 5.11d, so I gave it a go. I got about 5 bolts up to the reachy move on the bulge (which I had to aid through), then got shut down after that. Is this a glimpse of the power required to climb 12b's and beyond? I had a blast, but I thought I was strong enough to at least finish 12a's. I guess not. What do those of you who've tried it think?

Also, what up with the rusty piton at the bottom? That thing freaks me out until I know I won't fall on it!

I was gonna give you the link to 'Climb Ky ' there was a lot of discussion on that climb a while back, but I think the site expired . That's too bad , but fortunately the guys who can attempt that kind of route are still here. Not sure , but I think an angle driven in to a drilled hole was once an acceptable "bolt" . is that what you were seeing? That climb was a project of my climbing partner years ago, he prolly stuck it in there.

Those moves are not that bad past the 5th bolt. just more technical than the endurancy 12a s. give it another go! that pin was good last time i checked it. if others think it needs to be replaced , i could do that .

I agree with tbone. The individual moves aren't super hard but there are several relatively technical ones in a row where you are climbing above the bolt. I think the hardest move is pulling that last little roof to the right. The holds are tricky to find there. tbone, do you just grab those edges above the bulge and hike your foot up super high to pull that last bulge? This is definitely one of the coolest routes in the red.

i don't even remember a pin. maybe i was too freaked though. i thought the crux was definitely the moves above the slab.

Not sure of how many bolts up it is but whenever I look at that route and think about getting on it, the buldge above the slab always make me reconsider and back off.
If I remember right there is a bolt just after the lower slab then one up (and slightly right) about 10-12ft.
It looks like a fall at this higher bolt could be a "little" painful with the possibilty of hitting the slab pretty hard.??

there is a bolt you can reach from below the first bulge. If you climb above this all the way to the next bolt and take a whipper it is very fun and doesn't hurt at all. that section is a bit pumpy but the crux is to the right pulling the next bulge.

Danny , rather to give too much beta in this thread, there is sorta of hidden hold to get past the last bulge along with the moves you mentioned. see me this weekend at miguels i can give you inch by inch beta! wouldnt want to ruin the expierence for those who have never done that move, if you know what i mean

I AM LOOKING FOR SCROTUMS OF MALES WHO HAVE DONE THE GIFT. IF YOU HAVE A NICE SCROTUM PLEASE PM ME.

Ask BBerlier, he has done it. I belayed and from what I could see, definitely a Warrior's Way kinda route! Heady!