RRC Archives

what knot do you use?

Let the gumby remarks begin.

Single overhand, aka the Euro death knot.

single overhand works and seems less likely to get stuck as well, just don't do it with brand new slick ropes.

If you're not scared of ropes getting stuck somewhere then just use something simple and bulky like a figure 8.

Or just use the standard double/triple fishermans, but make sure you practice that one before you use it. Some say the triple fishermans is a must, but I never bothered with it. double fisherman's was always enough.

Also, if it wasn't obvious...please don't rap off of any knot you haven't practiced or at least read about thoroughly in a book, because I would hate for you to mis tie a knot that you read about on the internetz and die.

I have pretty much only used the figure eight. I'm not a fan of the euro death knot because of how its loaded. Just doesnt seem right from a mechanical standpoint.

I have never gotten the figure eight stuck, either. Unless you are rapping right to the end of the rope, its not super likely your knot will get stuck. When you pull the rope, the knot is pretty close to you by the time the rope falls through the anchor. Not much distance for it to get stuck at that point, but I suppose it does happen on occasion.

I prefer the figure eight as well. For some reason I feel a lot more confident with it, and did not have any problems getting it stuck.

double eight or a barrel aka bloodknot

The figure 8 is actually very bad to use as a rap knot - there was a death a couple years ago because of it. When the overhand inverts, it forms another over hand. When the 8 inverts, you die. Never had problems with the overhand, just leave long tails and you are set.

If the overhand freaks you out, next best is square knot backed up with double fisherman's on each side - secure, but easy to untie.

Link: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.clim ... d65b?pli=1

Again, do not use a flat 8 as a rap knot. You run a serious risk of being dead. Flat overhand is fine. Rewoven 8 is fine. But, flat 8 can kill you.

i was taught to use an overhand w/long tails. craig leuben explained why he used that one and the other choices, but i don't remember all that. i just remember that the overhand works great, is simple to tie, can be untied, and gets the job done.

Wes wrote:Link: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.clim ... d65b?pli=1

Again, do not use a flat 8 as a rap knot. You run a serious risk of being dead. Flat overhand is fine. Rewoven 8 is fine. But, flat 8 can kill you.

Wow, good thing to know. I always use a rewoven 8.

I could see other knots being a little less bulky, but I don't see this as a deciding factor. Any knot you tie has some risk of getting stuck when you pull the rope. On rappel look for obstacles, trees, etc to minimize your chances.....