RRC Archives

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:48 am Post subject:


Well the reason I am going strait to 12's is because I thought about projecting an overhung 11, but then I realized the only ones I could think of were nothing but crimps, and I would rather climb one of the reds famous jug hauls. Especially with Saxman setting up the toprope.

I'm sure I can handle it.

I climb hard in the gym, one 11 I projected and sent was also projected by a really good climber, and it even took him a few days to get it, and I only ever saw one other person send it(but I'm sure more than a few people had already sent it). As soon as it started it was a really pumpy crimpy boulder problem where you are really leaning this way and that, then you have to make this huge move on a really shallow crimp out to this honeycomb hold. Getting on top of that thing was like pulling a roof since the hold was so big and stuck out so far. Right after you do that is when the route gets really overhung, and the very next move you had to make was on this pig pinch, but at least I eventually found a way so that I didn't have to match on that thing anymore. After that you had to make these huge shouldery boulder moves back to back to back, and the holds just got worse and worse until finally you get to this ridiculous crux. No matter how many times I did that crux I always sucked at it, until one day I invented a new way to do it. Instead of making the reachy move and walking my feet up the bare wall, I walked my feet way up to some foot chips, took a tiny shake rest since my feet were just good enough that I wouldn't barn-door, then I made the reachy move, and if it wasn't for that I would have never got the send. Compared to the 11B I used to climb there, this route felt so much harder, and took so much more endurance that it might as well of been rated 12A. I doubt rating it that wouldn't have been any more ridiculous as the 12A rating on Ro.

redpoiint wrote:Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:48 am Post subject:

I climb hard in the gym, one 11 I projected and sent was also projected by a really good climber, and it even took him a few days to get it, and I only ever saw one other person send it(but I'm sure more than a few people had already sent it). As soon as it started it was a really pumpy crimpy boulder problem where you are really leaning this way and that, then you have to make this huge move on a really shallow crimp out to this honeycomb hold. Getting on top of that thing was like pulling a roof since the hold was so big and stuck out so far. Right after you do that is when the route gets really overhung, and the very next move you had to make was on this pig pinch, but at least I eventually found a way so that I didn't have to match on that thing anymore. After that you had to make these huge shouldery boulder moves back to back to back, and the holds just got worse and worse until finally you get to this ridiculous crux. No matter how many times I did that crux I always sucked at it, until one day I invented a new way to do it. Instead of making the reachy move and walking my feet up the bare wall, I walked my feet way up to some foot chips, took a tiny shake rest since my feet were just good enough that I wouldn't barn-door, then I made the reachy move, and if it wasn't for that I would have never got the send. Compared to the 11B I used to climb there, this route felt so much harder, and took so much more endurance that it might as well of been rated 12A. I doubt rating it that wouldn't have been any more ridiculous as the 12A rating on Ro.

it's like a textual nitrous ballon, this post.

"it was a really pumpy crimpy boulder problem where you are really leaning this way and that"

my favorite part. if only because it uses such intense modifiers.

I can really tell you know what you are talking about. Someone of your climbing ability should probably project a 5.13.

what the heck is a pig pinch? whatever it is, I claim copyright...

Ramdoman wrote:I can really tell you know what you are talking about. Someone of your climbing ability should probably project a 5.13.

i tried to climb one in the gym but the moves were so complex and invigorating that i got twisted and almost sprained my vagina.

seriously John Long says ropes that can handle a fall factor of two can hold a climber projecting a 12 such as twinkie. what do you all seriously think? i mean really seriously and only serious reply if you're serious and not kidding but serious. should i get a new rope and then try twinkie or should i climb it with my new rope that has passed the John Long test? would somebody like to hold my camera and video me at the onsight (when you climb without falling on a climb you haven't climbed before) while saxman belays (protects a falling climber by using a rope and a mechanical device) me with my new rope that I only used in the gym so its not totally new but only outside new.

I can only imagine the next post, "I'll probably project it for a few tries then try and onsight it on TR before going for the lead."

nope its going to be about me bouldering a v10 (similar to a 13c) in Indiana at the rock quarry when my old rope had to hold me from almost falling while I was resting on the rope between complex sequences that only a professional climber will understand.

golly, I miss the real redpoint.....this douche can't even troll correctly....