treadwall training

[bcombs]

A follow up. I trained on the treadwall for the last 8 months fairly consistently with a motivated partner. The wall was tilted to 30 degrees past vert. Our typical regimen was to warm up for four minutes without weight, then adding 12 to 25 lbs doing sets of 4 minutes, six minutes, four minutes, and within these sets climbing on small edges for 2 laps then to larger positive holds for 2-3 laps recovering, then back to small edges again- the point being getting pumped on small edges but climbing through on bigger holds recovering.
Not having climbed outside much it is hard to say how this served. The few times I did get out I was able to do 12- that I was familiar with without much difficulty. I am satisfied, but still the treadwall hasn't seemed to be a replacement (in training) for climbing on the real stone.

Sounds like a good workout. My Treadwall is just a bit over 35 degrees. I warm up for 2 minutes on big'ish holds (two pad +) then do 9 sets of 2 minutes with 5 minutes of rest between sets (technically, 5:13 of rest, I know it is ridiculous ). How much rest was between the 4/6/4 in your workout. Did you just rest the time it took your partner to go?

Recently I started a rule where each hand movement had to span 4 boards. It seems to force PE training as opposed to tick tacking up. Made it feel a bit more bouldery. I started this because I climbed on Cromlech's Treadwall that has the foot stopper. Climbing the wall this way makes it more like climbing a static 11 foot boulder that goes on forever. Completely different approach than I had anticipated with the foot stopper.

Glad to hear it is working for you. I agree there is no replacement for the real thing, but training in the garage is a whole lot more entertaining with the TreadWall.

[the lurkist]

We rest the amount of time the other guy was going, and then some more until we were ready for the beat down again.
While the treadwall is the best device I have found for training endurance, when you can do too numerous to count moves (>> 30 moves), the muscles aren't asked /expected to do more work (moving mass over distance), so they don't. The muscles don't get stronger (aren't able to produce more force).
The glaring deficit was the resistance. We tried to compensate by adding weight, but you reach a limit with how much weight you can put on.
Currently, we have shifted to hit strips...
But like I said, I never climb outside, so this is all a bit abstract.

[robert birchell]

Hit strips will train power (6-8 moves per hand) and recruitment (3 moves per hand).
Add weight as needed.
Treadwall for power endurance.
Good luck to you.
P.S.
You are still young with time to get back to your fun level.
One of our climbing gang (52 years old) just did 4 routes
on the Hulk (Sierra Alpine routes) in a day. About 40 pitches.
After each route he hiked down to start next route.
It is a 5 mile hike into the climb.

[One-Fall]

While the treadwall is the best device I have found for training endurance, when you can do too numerous to count moves (>> 30 moves), the muscles aren't asked /expected to do more work (moving mass over distance), so they don't. The muscles don't get stronger (aren't able to produce more force).

What about training the aerobic capacity of the forearms? it is my understanding that logging 20-40 min on route will help develop aerobic capacity of forearm musculature. Doesn't get you stronger, but allows you to climb longer without a pump on the "fluff" sections of our projects. It's my understanding that this type of prolonged training does push the anaerobic threshold further to the right. I'd think the treadwall would be well suited for this.

Fill me in . . .

[bcombs]

I don't know about Lurkist's setup, my Treadwall though is modified and fixed at 35 degrees. On even the biggest jugs its hard to go long periods and get any pure endurance effect.

For that I use a Maxi-Pull (thanks, tutugirl). It works great, was easy to build and with some added weight burns my forearms up!

[One-Fall]

And what is a Maxi-pull?

[bcombs]

And what is a Maxi-pull?

Attached is a pic. I'm sure you've seen these before. The one I built is slightly different than the pictures, but the idea is the same. The main thing is that it slopes down as it moves toward the end of the board. It keeps your shoulders and elbows in a natural alignment.

It seems like this does little to nothing for finger strength. The work is all isolated in the forearm.

Hopefully tutugirl is cool with me sending this around. Her instructions are below:

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The board is 36 inches long each pvc is 15 inches long attached with two bolts and covered with skate tape.

The distance of the board from the board to the top board is 4 inches and at the far side is one ince...the board itself is 17 inches and the pvc is 15 inches you don't need the little hinges they are there if you want to make the board harder and add to wood tabs which would make the surface to hold smaller.

The pvc is a 4 inch pvc missing 1 inch and the 17 inch board that is sitting is rout out for the 15 inch pipe to slide tightly in the space. Like you can see...we need to change the tape

Workout:
"The start is 45 seconds on 15 seconds off five times wait 5 minutes and repeat 3 times. If that is too hard start with 30 seconds on and 15 seconds off. If you can do the 45 seconds then do a minute on 15 seconds off 5 times three sets with 5 minutes in between sets...if that is easy start with 5 pull ups and then hang a minute and 15 seconds rest 5 times and also 3 sets."

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[One-Fall]

thanks for the informative reply. Havent seen one in years, but the gym I learned to climb in had one. If this is a main staple of your training, let me know how its working for you.

thanks,

lee

[the lurkist]

To One Fall's question-
I think the treadwall does train endurance. I think it does encourage muscles of climbing- forearms, etc.. to become more efficient in an aerobic / borderline anaerobic environment. It mimicks the motion/kinetics of climbing closely.
It has its limits in not duplicating the unique body positions that routes force you into. I have found it difficult to recreat specific body tension found on routes. On the treadwall your feet are always big. Maybe I lack the mental fortitude to make myself find the difficult body positions.
Don't get me wrong. I love the treadwall. But it has some limitations.
All that said- the biggest advocate of treadwalls is Bill Ramsey and we know what he has done.

[heavyc]

Does Ramsey have a treadwall or a different brand that goes steeper? I was talking with someone about him and would be real interested in what type of workout routines he used. They sort of made light of my suggestion that he had a treadwall and stated that he would have had a model that goes much steeper, I believe Entre pris at one time made something that went all the way to horizontal. Although I suspect that person had no personal knowledge of this.