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Sport lines in wilderness areas

Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 2:50 am
by Wes
This is kinda an expansion to the funk rock thread:
captain static wrote:
I personally think us climbers as a community need to pursue how we can maintain the fixed anchors in Clifty in a manner that meets or exceeds the ideals of the Wilderness Act.
This is a conversation we climbers need to have. While these routes were bolted with power drills, the area wasn't part of the cliffty wilderness then. But, to maintain those routes today, would mean hand drilling. FRC is the main area with sport routes, but the anchors at Tower, Eagle point, Wall of Denail, the small walls, and maybe a couple more would be effected.

If we are going to keep these routes reasonably safe, and follow the law, then we need to think about hand drilling, or about stripping some of them.

And, if we decide to try to keep them safe with hand drills, we need to use hardware that will last the longest, even if it means more work with the hammer and drill.

I, personally, am not super psyched about hand drilling, but if we can get 15 or 20 people to commit to doing one route, we can probably get it taken care of. It isn't rocket science...

Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:30 am
by caribe
|| posted this before I saw your post, I think we are on the same page now Wes ||
This might be one of those situations in which many hand drills make light work. The RRGCC might think about organizing a trail day in which legions of climbers are armed with hand drills and we go en mass to FRC with the worst bolts on the most popular routes as our targets.

Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:36 am
by bcombs
Maybe we can get a donation of a dozen or so hand drills from Petzl.

Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:53 am
by Meadows
Stainless would be best. Or, how about popping the bolt and re-using the hole with a glue-in?

Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:57 am
by RRO
1 person could easily do a route in a day with a hand drill. count me in and name the day.

Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:05 am
by Jeff
As Ive always said - I'm in.
It just needs to get organized.
Hand Drill donations would be great.
I agree with stainless. Glue-ins would be great, but the fact that people might stop using bail 'biners and start lowering directly off of glue-ins and wearing them out should be considered.

Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 11:21 am
by pawilkes
I don't have a hand drill and I've never drilled a bolt hole but I'd be up for giving a few days to this effort. I know a bolt popped on Campfire Crank at Wall of Denial last year, not on a fall just pulled out.

Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 12:34 pm
by Gregory
Count me in too. Just need a date and a hand drill.

Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:18 pm
by ahab
i heart FRC.

i'll donate:
a) time/effort
b) cash
c) all of the above

whatever is needed most. just give me a date.

Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:25 pm
by krampus
I may bail on my trad partners but don't usually bail on work. I'm in, sounds like a great idea.