"just scary enough..."

Post by **Wes** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 6:27 pm

Isn't it cool to do a route that has just a bit of a scare factor? Not a full on nightmare, but just enough to get to blood flowing?

I did yellow spur the other day, and it was just such a route. Never really thought I was going to die, but there were a couple spots that kinda made you think about the next moves more then most routes.

That is good clean trad fun.

Wes

Post by **SikMonkey** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 6:57 pm

For some reason, the crux clip on Wild Yet Tasty has that affect on me. It's like "ya know, I wouldn't die if I fell here, but it still doesn't look fun".

Mj

Post by **Uncle Big Green** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 7:35 pm

It's true. There was a Wes and Q sighting last Thurs after work in Eldo. Wes, I'm going to guess that you guys did the 9 start and the 10- second to last pitch. That's what RP (Chenault) and I did about 1.5 yrs. ago. Either way, it's a good climb.

Post by **captain static** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 7:39 pm

Congratulations on your climb Wes! I have never done Yellow Spur. I have done Bastille. The last time I was in Eldo I on-sighted Over The Hill. It was on my 40th birthday. On the second pitch the crux is just off the belay stemming up an open book dihedral. If you blow the crux you are going to fall right on your belayer as there is no pro until after you make the move. The first pro is actually a fixed pin so it is kinda like sport climbing. While in Colorado if you ever see a big, tall, blonde, norwegian looking guy doing hard bouldering or hear the name Chris Goplerud, tell him Captain Static said hello.

Post by **air canada** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 7:45 pm

Dave the Dude does it for me, crossing from some thin face moves to the flake. You're there looking over to the flake, worndering how to get there from here, with the last bolt a little bit below you, and some miserable holds in front. Definately some extra spice there!
Those vertical routes can freak me a little.

Post by **Eric** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 8:20 pm

Yellow Spur is a great route with lots of exposure on the last part. I don't think the crux clip on Wild Yet Tasty is that bad, I didn't realize how runout the top part is until I was on the ground looking up at it.

Post by **goodguy** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 8:55 pm

I did Grandmothers Challenge in eldo Last month and it was great! You have to go up to this small roof off of a hanging belay and pulling around the roof was really heart pounding with your gear below you and off to the left.

Post by **t bone** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 9:43 pm

Yellow Spur is a great route, now go do other eldo classics like The Naked Edge, Jules Verne, T2 , and Super Slab the list goes on. Great Trad.

Post by **tonybubb** » Thu Jul 03, 2003 12:30 am

Eldo has tons of climbs that are just scarey enough, no matter who you are. Grandmother's Challenge and Yellow Spur are not considered runout in Eldo though... unless you start on the 10b flare to do Yellow Spur, but nobody ever seems to do so.
As for Red River "Just Scarey Enough" I vote for BeeneStalker, but I hear that is closed now? If so, then "Things That Go Bump In the Night" is kinda spookey at it's grade. Seems I remember a few more like that: "Hollywood Boulevard", "Serpent," or "The Quest"...

Try "Prozac Nation" and a Route called "Just The Four OF Us" or something like that, (at Pocketwall) for the 'Uhhhh. OK, (barf) that was a little much' feeling.