RRC Archives

Monday 23Nov there was a note below Count Floyd, something along the lines of "Bring your own anchors, these are crap"

Any insight here?

We ran out of time before going up to see what the note was about.

As a ps...there are a couple of project draws on Twinkie which are pretty shot.

We were on count floyd last spring and the anchors looked fine then.

Redpoint has been frequenting Phantasia during the Gumby Twinkie Experiment. Coincidence? I think not!

john long told him that the anchors would only take a static fall of 16k n or a dynamic fall at a factor 2 of 6k n which relates to a bad thing so he jacked them.

That's kN, the letters go right next to each other, and the k is lowercase, but you capitalize the n.

Thanks Wes...I seriously doubt that anchors could decay to "crap" in 6 months.

i saw them a few weeks ago and they looked fine if not perfectly fine.

Just as a bit of an aside - the new first bolt on count floyd is the first bolt I drilled. We replaced the anchors on those three routes, and rebolted count floyd on really hot August day.

Thanks WES!

I saw that sign a few weeks ago. I think it was written by some moron who, among other things, doesn't know the difference between draws and anchors. I think he/she was saying that the draws were no good. Someone has left fixed draws on this route, apparently as a tribute to a deceased loved one. The draws had inscriptions engraved on them.

The draws were all fine, but there were none on the anchors, so the message might have meant "bring two draws for the anchors", or they might have meant that the draws were unsafe because they had engravings on them. Either way whoever wrote the message is clueless.