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Is there any such thing as a comfortable hanging belay???

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 4:12 pm
by gripster
Maybe this isn't the best place to ask this question, but there are bound to be a few multi-pitch climbing gurus on here that can help me out. I did a route a Whitesides mountain a couple of weekends ago, and ever belay was a hanging belay. I have a pretty cushy harness, but no matter of moving around, re-situating or stretching seemed to help. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get in a comfortable position in a hanging belay? I am guessing the answer is "hanging belays are not comfortable, so stop whining and deal with it" which is the approach i have been taking so far.

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 4:14 pm
by pkananen
I switch from feet against the wall, to knees against the wall, to side against the wall. That, and sliding harness leg loops up and down the leg for a change.

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 4:37 pm
by Saxman
Bosun's Chair.

http://tiny.cc/kLeiI

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 4:45 pm
by ynot
Good question. I always did the same as Pk. It's uncomfy. Anyone tried the chair?

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 5:05 pm
by gripster
The chair looks pretty sweet, but who wants to carry extra crap? yeah i definitely was doing the same dance that Pk was describing. Also if you drape the rope over one foot then your foot starts to go numb as well! I kept switching from foot to foot to alleviate this problem.

On a related note, what is the best method you guys have found for hauling your water? I have always carried nalgenes on my harness, usually 2L, but man that weighs on you and is seriously unpleasant. Has anyone tried camelbacks or have any other brilliant ideas?

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 5:41 pm
by jrathfon
to gripster: pound water at the car, piss before blastoff, and if it's truly long (aka +4p's) the second carries a bullet bag with water in it. you'll tend to drink too much, run out of water early, and need to piss before it's over with a camelback. i use recycled gatorade 1qt. bottles as they are lighter, cheaper, and more durable than nalgenes, but still have a wide mouth.

if you're aiding use your aiders as steps to stand on. if you're free climbing, you can hand double length fatter slings for foot loops. the biggest key is get farther away from the belay than a shoulder length, the longer your leashes the less leverage there is, thus the less weight on your feet. i have a BD momentum which is comfortable enough for a full day route. if your feet are getting tired with the ropes over them, flake into a sling hanging from the belay, or take the coil up from your feet and sling it onto the belay. you can also use your shelf for flaking. other than that knees, side, feet like noted.

i will be getting a bosun's chair for aid though, i can handle a long free climbing belay of a half hour, but the 2hr aid hanging belays suck! even with ladders to stand in. there are also little webbing and nylon seats, which would be less bulky and rigid than the BD bosun's chair. i believe fish sells them, maybe yates too, they are similar to sailing trapese harnesses.

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 6:15 pm
by gripster
whitesides mountain is 10+ pitches and up to 800 feet of climbing. It is sustained and steep. it gets full sun all day, so you will roast, shrivel up, and die without at least 2L of water per person. i like the idea of a bullet bag.

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 6:19 pm
by jrathfon
in the bullet you can also stuff in bars, lamps, shells, layers, etc. and it's still small, light and low profile. water bladder's definitely sit nicer on a climber's back, but i hate that little tempting tube in my face (same goes for mt. biking).

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 6:19 pm
by jrathfon
oh and gatorade bottles double as pee-bottles, the other handy part about not bringing nalgenes

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 7:05 pm
by Savage
if you dont want to pay the money for the chair or carry the extra weight, fashion yourself a seat out of tubular webbing. As long as you are putting the weight on your butt instead of leg loops, you will be much happier. And it doesnt get cheaper and lighter than webbing!