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Long-term topropes on trad projects.

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 5:17 pm
by camhead
Ok, I wasn't going to bring this up, but I'm putting off work, and just noticed someone in the "stolen quickdraws" thread correctly note how lame it is to leave topropes hanging.

This past weekend we went out to Funk Rock City. I hadn't been there for a year or so. I noticed that there were topropes fixed and hanging on the two hard trad routes there– Gyana Mudra (Rudy) and Snotrocket. Someone who had been there in the past told me that they had been there for weeks, perhaps longer, and they definitely looked like it.

Anyone know what the deal is with this; who's ropes are they? I've seen plenty of ropes hanging on projects, but both of these lines have already seen ascents. Also, what are the ethics of leaving ropes hanging on national forest lands, as opposed to private PMRP or Muir Valley land?

From my perspective, it seemed a bit sloppy, and I do not know of a lot of other areas where hard trad routes have had fixed topropes for weeks at a time by someone looking for a second ascent. This has nothing to do with ground up ethics or anything like that, and given the difficulty of the lines, I don't think that the ropes are getting in the way of many people looking to do the line in better style; it just seems lazy, that's all. At the same time, I did take the liberty of getting on Gyana Mudra; it's too beautiful of a line to not get on when there's a free TR; that thing is piss hard (but that's beside the point).

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 5:27 pm
by qazwsx
The same rope has been on Gyana Mudra at least since late May early June. It has been hanging in the same rodo each time I have been out there.

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 5:31 pm
by ahab
booty? booty!

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 5:46 pm
by Jay
ahab wrote:booty? booty!
ARRRRRRR!!!!!!

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 5:49 pm
by michaelarmand
I also was there Sunday and I definitely agree that these ropes (and trad gear) should come down. They are an obvious violation of the no new fixed gear rule. Hikers and others visiting the clif may also view it as an eyesore and complain.

And if we are as a community going to "bend" or "interpret" rules, I think we'd be better off replacing/installing new safe anchors on existing lines.....

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 5:59 pm
by Savage
yeah, the rope on Gyana has been there for months. And you have some serious balls for trusting it... it looked fairly faded when I saw it at the end of october.

here is my vote: Pull the rope (and fixed gear if you are so inclined) and leave a post on the forum saying you have it. If someone PMs you, give it back to them. if no one claims it, do what you want with it.

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 6:02 pm
by camhead
Savage wrote:yeah, the rope on Gyana has been there for months. And you have some serious balls for trusting it... it looked fairly faded when I saw it at the end of october.

here is my vote: Pull the rope (and fixed gear if you are so inclined) and leave a post on the forum saying you have it. If someone PMs you, give it back to them. if no one claims it, do what you want with it.
The rope was fine for toproping; a bit stiff for the gri gri, but that was about it. The draws on the anchors and in the directionals were fine as well, although the stoppers themselves were a bit rusted. That route sees the sun so rarely that I don't think bleaching is really much of a concern.

I did consider pulling it and then leaving it at Miguel's with the message "someone lost their rope at Funk Rock City," here it is! Maybe I'll do that next time, as soon as I work the beta out a bit more. heh.

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 6:07 pm
by SCIN
Somebody thinks they're the only one interested in climbing cracks around here. Pull em and keep the gear.

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 6:08 pm
by jrathfon
yup, i've already complained about this. you can easily access the ledge above via other climbs, and reset a TR, it could even be your warmup. but leaving a rope on an already finished climb for months on end is just lame. both are eyesores (snotrocket and gyana).

and i know this is a sport route, but what the hell is up with the rotting rope in the middle of the amphitheatre at roadside? i think it was shortened recently at the bottom... but that thing is suspect and ugly.

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 6:58 pm
by captain static
michaelarmand wrote:They are an obvious violation of the no new fixed gear rule.
Would someone please remove the ropes and gear before the Forest Service has to ask. They do monitor this site you know.