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I don't even know how many that makes this year. I'd like to start a discussion on what can be done to reduce the amount of accidents this route sees.

thanks,

lee

I don't know that it can be any safer - it is bolted pretty well as is, I think. Sometimes it really is rock climbing and you really can get hurt.

R/X ?

clif wrote:R/X ?

No. Every sport route is R to the first bolt if you don't stick clip it. Is that where and how this most recent decking took place?

Yeah, I was at Scissors and heard the dreaded "thud" followed by excited voices and moaning.
Quickly ran over towards trocs expecting a repeat of last Sunday.
Saw a group of guys helping the guy that decked to stand up. He was on his knees and pretty rattled.
When I could see them from under the waterfall, I yelled out if they were ok?
They said yes and 10 - 15 minutes later you could hear everyone re-hashing what had happened.

Stick clipping is smart.

it really sucks that this is happening, my thoughts go out to the people that have been hurt for sure, being hurt is not a fun place to be in.

its been a long time since i have been on that climb but i dont remember it being that bad to start. plenty of other climbs in the area and the region are as bad or worse.

even in sport climbing you just cant make the sport 100% safe. and in all reality thats a huge piece/draw of the sport. it takes mind and body and the ability to analyze the situation.

people need to learn their limitations, the art of being able to make a stick clip out of nothing , knowing when to use them, knowing you may be over your head, when to back off and "how to do the math".

climb safe folks and watch out for each other

exactly.

i'm also a little curious about the influence of gyms in this trend.

I remember the start requiring a bit of balance and it seemed to stay a bit wet. I think local ethic is pretty stick clip friendly but I've seen some people visiting who are steadfast against them. We had to tell a guy getting on Fuzzy that "we'll let you use our stick clip but we're not helping carry you out if you get hurt because you don't use it". apparently it was against his "ethic" or something. he ended up stick clipping and falling about 5 times before he got the start.

land shark

how about a stainless gluein below the current first bolt? of course, the equipper would have to OK that.