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I am familiar with the standard ways of backing up a rappel using a prussik or one of the other friction knots. I also am familiar with a firemans belay or belaying the rappeler from above on a seperate rope. However, I recently read a post on the internet about a climber belaying a rappeler from above using only one rope, the one that the rappeler was descending. The post did not give any details on how this was accomplished and I can't get it straight in my head how this would work. If it could be done safely it seems like it would be a handy trick to have in your bag. Does anyone have any experience with this or know how you would go about setting something like this up? I"ve done multiple searches looking for more information on this, but everything I find uses two seperate ropes, one to rappel and one for the bely.

njp158 wrote:I recently read a post on the internet...

in the future, this is how world wars will be started.

I"m not sure the relevance that has to my question. All I am asking is if this is possible and if so has anyone has used it.

Just tie a hard knot into the middle of the rope, clip to anchor point. Have climber one tie in as normal, and put them on belay. Then have them set up to single line rap on the other side of the rope. While they are rappelling, just keep some slack in the belay line. Works well to give a backup from above, and won't shred your rope like straight lowering can sometimes if there are funky edges.

ahab wrote:

njp158 wrote:I recently read a post on the internet...

in the future, this is how world wars will be started.

And those world wars will be fought by robots.

njp158 wrote:I"m not sure the relevance that has to my question. All I am asking is if this is possible and if so has anyone has used it.

It is going to have some serious fucking relevance when a robot rappels in to your home and takes your wife and children hostage in a time of war.

They probably won't have that technology for about 100 more years though, so you shouldn't have to worry about it.

Barnacle Ben wrote:

ahab wrote:

njp158 wrote:I recently read a post on the internet...

in the future, this is how world wars will be started.

And those world wars will be fought by robots.

Conan O'Brien needs to use that line in his next "year 2000" bit.

In boy scouts, we used to set up a regular rappell for first timers, then setup a separate toprope type system tied into their harness, i always thought it was pointless and redundant, but one kid(who was a little scared before this) slipped while weighting the rope on the edge and had a mental meltdown, we were glad to have an easy way to help haul him up.

Barnacle Ben wrote:

njp158 wrote:I"m not sure the relevance that has to my question. All I am asking is if this is possible and if so has anyone has used it.

It is going to have some serious fucking relevance when a robot rappels in to your home and takes your wife and children hostage in a time of war.

that robot will not be backed up. oh the irony.

The answer to the OP's question is called a fully-releasable rappel on a munter-mule and munter combination (well, maybe that's not the technical term but whatever). The rappel line is locked off with a munter-mule, and the rappel is belayed with a munter by the other climber who is at the anchor at top. The point of the system is that if the rappeller gets in trouble the other can lock off the belay line, release the rappel line, and then take control of the rappeller. This is now the standard practice of the AMGA. This can all be done with one rope.