RRC Archives

I officially started my trad rack today with a full set of nuts. (Since I'm too poor for cams right now...) Does anyone have any suggestions for some good cracks at the Red that can be protected just by nuts (preferably in the 5.7 and below range)?

SO, Lynne and ynot, I'm ready to be converted! Hehehe

I did Calypso II (5.6) at Fortress Wall a few weeks back with only passive gear. I mostly used nuts, but had a few tricams as well (in places where nuts would have worked too).

Oh, and congrats on starting your rack. Trad is so fun.

Green eggs and Ham. Dip Wall
Flaring Crack. Purple Valley
Five Finger Discount. Roadside

The stances on Calypso II are even reasonable enough so that your cleaner can remove your zealously placed nuts without pumping out. I at least find that my leader often places bombproof stoppers at times I am having trouble even staying on the rock.

spring for some Lowe tri-cams next. The Pink (.5) and the red (1) are great for the Red

Casual Viewing maybe with a couple odd cams.Maybe we could climb this weekend,I'm just not sure if Im going yet.I want to hit this crag in the shade with some interesting moderates.Would be a good place to learn gear placements.
You can use those nuts to protect plated faces sometimes too.

Yasmeen if you are climbing this weekend you are welcome to join us and use whatever you need from my rack. We'll be doing some easy trad on Saturday, not sure what on Sunday.

I kind of remember Snake @ Fortress being all passive and pretty easy for a 5.8. And maybe Bombs Bursting. Actually, there are lots of easy passive routes to practice on @ Fortress. How much gear have you set? Will you have an experienced traddy climbing with you? I found that one of the best ways to learn more about placements was to clean routes for more experienced leaders. Be careful, good luck and have fun!

I wouldn't recommend bombs bursting for a new trad leader. Of course I'm also somewhat of a chicken.